All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron > N Apron

Whirlwind

Name: Whirlwind
Rating: 2.4

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in North Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches
GPS:	49.68766, -123.14493
FA:	Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts 1996
Page Views:	1,881 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

An excellent route that climbs quality friction slabs into a burly overhanging crack toward the end.

Pitches 1-4 do not require any gear, except a few finger sized pieces for the 10b variation on p3

The route is well protected for a slab, and the biggest runouts have been removed since it was retro-bolted.

p1 (10c) - climb the bolted slab, taking the right fork when you have the option

p2 (10b) - follow the bolts! more slab

p3 (10b/11a) - Follow bolts left, then climb up the slab and head back right to a tree belay. A bit dirty.

The 11a 'Buckets Ahoy' variation is much better and follows bolts directly up the slab.

p4 (10c) - traverse the ledge leftward to reach a bolted anchor and the start of p4.

Climb a bolted slabby arete to a bolt anchor.

p5 (10b) - traverse right and drop onto the next slab by a tree. Climb up the slab (bolts) or else go straight up the dirty corner. There's a new bolted anchor at a good stance below the corner.

p6 (10c) - climb the rad overhanging crack. Belay at the top of the crack and exit right for the standard finish, or skip the belay and exit left if you want to climb a rad roof crack (Voodoo Amour, 11d)

p7 (5.9) - pad up the slab to the top

Descent:

Walk left to an easy crack, and follow it up to

Broadway ledge. Walk right off Broadway ledge to the standard apron descent, or climb more stuff to the top!

Location

To find the start of the route, park at the Apron parking lot. Head up the trail that goes into the forest just past the outhouse, trending left on the trail. You'll reach a slabby right-leaning groove at the base of the apron (that leads to Snake) - instead of going up the V groove, go left along the trail. 20m left of the groove, hike up a dead tree ramp to reach the start of a bolted slab.