All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Apron
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Routes in The Apron
|A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches|
|FA:||Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts 1996|
|Page Views:||191 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionAn excellent route that climbs quality friction slabs into a burly overhanging crack toward the end.
Pitches 1-4 do not require any gear, except a few finger sized pieces for the 10b variation on p3
The route is well protected for a slab, but a bit spicy at times
p1 (10c) - climb the bolted slab, taking the right fork when you have the option
p2 (10b) - follow the bolts! more slab
p3 (10b/11a) - Follow bolts left, then climb up the slab and head back right to a tree belay. A bit dirty.
The 11a 'Buckets Ahoy' variation is much better and follows bolts directly up the slab.
p4 (10c) - traverse the ledge leftward to reach a bolted anchor and the start of p4.
Climb a bolted slabby arete to a bolt anchor.
p5 (10b) - traverse right and drop onto the next slab by a tree. Climb boldly up the slab (bolts) or else go straight up the dirty corner. Gear anchor at the base of the overhanging corner.
p6 (10c) - climb the rad overhanging crack. Belay at the top of the crack and exit right for the standard finish, or skip the belay and exit left if you want to climb a rad roof crack (Voodoo Amour, 11d)
p7 (5.9) - pad up the slab to the top
Walk left to an easy crack, and follow it up to
Broadway ledge. Walk right off Broadway ledge to the standard apron descent, or climb more stuff to the top!
LocationTo find the start of the route, park at the Apron parking lot. Head up the trail that goes into the forest just past the outhouse, trending left on the trail. You'll reach a slabby right-leaning groove at the base of the apron (that leads to Snake) - instead of going up the V groove, go left along the trail. 20m left of the groove, hike up a dead tree ramp to reach the start of a bolted slab.
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