Avg: 2 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches|
|FA:||Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts 1996|
|Page Views:||923 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Pitches 1-4 do not require any gear, except a few finger sized pieces for the 10b variation on p3
The route is well protected for a slab, but a bit spicy at times
p1 (10c) - climb the bolted slab, taking the right fork when you have the option
p2 (10b) - follow the bolts! more slab
p3 (10b/11a) - Follow bolts left, then climb up the slab and head back right to a tree belay. A bit dirty.
The 11a 'Buckets Ahoy' variation is much better and follows bolts directly up the slab.
p4 (10c) - traverse the ledge leftward to reach a bolted anchor and the start of p4.
Climb a bolted slabby arete to a bolt anchor.
p5 (10b) - traverse right and drop onto the next slab by a tree. Climb boldly up the slab (bolts) or else go straight up the dirty corner. Gear anchor at the base of the overhanging corner.
p6 (10c) - climb the rad overhanging crack. Belay at the top of the crack and exit right for the standard finish, or skip the belay and exit left if you want to climb a rad roof crack (Voodoo Amour, 11d)
p7 (5.9) - pad up the slab to the top
Walk left to an easy crack, and follow it up to
Broadway ledge. Walk right off Broadway ledge to the standard apron descent, or climb more stuff to the top!