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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts 1996
Page Views: 191 total, 10/month
Shared By: Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

An excellent route that climbs quality friction slabs into a burly overhanging crack toward the end.
Pitches 1-4 do not require any gear, except a few finger sized pieces for the 10b variation on p3
The route is well protected for a slab, but a bit spicy at times

p1 (10c) - climb the bolted slab, taking the right fork when you have the option

p2 (10b) - follow the bolts! more slab

p3 (10b/11a) - Follow bolts left, then climb up the slab and head back right to a tree belay. A bit dirty.
The 11a 'Buckets Ahoy' variation is much better and follows bolts directly up the slab.

p4 (10c) - traverse the ledge leftward to reach a bolted anchor and the start of p4.
Climb a bolted slabby arete to a bolt anchor.

p5 (10b) - traverse right and drop onto the next slab by a tree. Climb boldly up the slab (bolts) or else go straight up the dirty corner. Gear anchor at the base of the overhanging corner.

p6 (10c) - climb the rad overhanging crack. Belay at the top of the crack and exit right for the standard finish, or skip the belay and exit left if you want to climb a rad roof crack (Voodoo Amour, 11d)

p7 (5.9) - pad up the slab to the top

Descent:
Walk left to an easy crack, and follow it up to
Broadway ledge. Walk right off Broadway ledge to the standard apron descent, or climb more stuff to the top!

Location

To find the start of the route, park at the Apron parking lot. Head up the trail that goes into the forest just past the outhouse, trending left on the trail. You'll reach a slabby right-leaning groove at the base of the apron (that leads to Snake) - instead of going up the V groove, go left along the trail. 20m left of the groove, hike up a dead tree ramp to reach the start of a bolted slab.

Protection

Camalots:
.3 to 2 (2x)
3 (1x)
4 (optional)

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