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> N Apron
Whirlwind
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 11
votes
Routes in North Apron
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts 1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,807 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
An excellent route that climbs quality friction slabs into a burly overhanging crack toward the end.
Pitches 1-4 do not require any gear, except a few finger sized pieces for the 10b variation on p3
The route is well protected for a slab, and the biggest runouts have been removed since it was retro-bolted.
p1 (10c) - climb the bolted slab, taking the right fork when you have the option
p2 (10b) - follow the bolts! more slab
p3 (10b/11a) - Follow bolts left, then climb up the slab and head back right to a tree belay. A bit dirty.
The 11a 'Buckets Ahoy' variation is much better and follows bolts directly up the slab.
p4 (10c) - traverse the ledge leftward to reach a bolted anchor and the start of p4.
Climb a bolted slabby arete to a bolt anchor.
p5 (10b) - traverse right and drop onto the next slab by a tree. Climb up the slab (bolts) or else go straight up the dirty corner. There's a new bolted anchor at a good stance below the corner.
p6 (10c) - climb the rad overhanging crack. Belay at the top of the crack and exit right for the standard finish, or skip the belay and exit left if you want to climb a rad roof crack (Voodoo Amour, 11d)
p7 (5.9) - pad up the slab to the top
Descent:
Walk left to an easy crack, and follow it up to
Broadway ledge. Walk right off Broadway ledge to the standard apron descent, or climb more stuff to the top!
Location
To find the start of the route, park at the Apron parking lot. Head up the trail that goes into the forest just past the outhouse, trending left on the trail. You'll reach a slabby right-leaning groove at the base of the apron (that leads to Snake) - instead of going up the V groove, go left along the trail. 20m left of the groove, hike up a dead tree ramp to reach the start of a bolted slab.
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