Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kris Wild, Jen Reilly 2000
Page Views: 704 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Jul 30, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on a slab with a bolt and move up to the right until you reach a vertical notch which leads into a slab corner. Chimney up onto the slab with a flared finger crack in a corner. Belay anywhere you find good gear placements. Continue up the corner until the corner becomes vertical and move into a hand crack that goes through a roof. End at the bolted anchors for Calculus Crack.

Location

100 Ft uphill from the start of St. Vitus' Dance and other routes on Baseline Ledge.

Protection

Finger gear and hand pieces for the final roof.

Photos

- No Photos -
KrisW  
The description given above is actually for the first pitch Calculus Direct, then continuing into the second pitch of Start From Scratch. SFS actually begins another 15m up and left of CD.

P1. Scramble up to the base of a steep wall with two large trees in front. Behind the left hand tree are parallel finger cracks that turn into shallow opposing corners. (Think of a very shallow chimney). Climb this past one bolt to a ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.10b, 20m
P2. Step right and face climb up past a bolt, then traverse right into the main corner. Up the corner to the roof that's easier than it appears, continue up the low angle crack above for 10 m, then step right to the bolted belay of Calculus Crack.

This route is a bit scruffy as of 2016, but is climbable when dry. New route activity around it will likely improve its curb appeal. Nov 20, 2016
K. Carver
portland
  5.10c
K. Carver   portland
  5.10c
Yes, it is kind of dirty. But I thought this was a fun (read: more challenging) way to start all the other routes going up this swath toward First Peak. Doing the 5.10 bulgy crack P2 above kept the variation spices on the warmer side, compared to the nearby Calculus Crack.

If you climb it, they will come! In other words it's a bit dirty, but if it got more travel it would start to clean up, and then get more travel, and then clean up more, and then get more travel, and then... See how it works? Aug 17, 2015