All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron > N Apron

South Arete

Name: South Arete
Rating: 3.2

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in North Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	49.68766, -123.14493
FA:	Fred Beckey, Hank Mather, Don Claunch, 1959
Page Views:	7,321 total · 38/month
Shared By:	Robert Fisher on May 26, 2010
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

P1: Shares first pitch of Calculus Crack, climbing tree routes up to a large ledge.

From the ledge, head straight up.

P2: Climb the dual hand/finger cracks that are left of St Vitus and right of Calculus Crack.

Once at the next large tree'd ledge, find a faint, steep trail and climb upwards through the trees. Keep going until you hit rock. The trail climbs through the trees longer than you'd expect, so unless you're climbing trees/roots for 25+ feet, you're not in the right spot.

P3: Climb the steep 3" crack for 20' where the angle backs down and the crack widens to 4"-5". Belay just below the obvious crux bulge, or at the flakes about 20' below. 5.8

P4: Climb through the bulge. It's easier than it looks. Climb up the 5.6 3" crack to a small dirt ledge, belay here on gear. 5.9 (crux)

P5: Scamper up the low-angle slab to the top, using the crack as necessary for pro. 5.4?

Descent:

Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.

R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)

R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)

R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m

R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)

R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location

Approach via the steep tree and dirt pitches (5.8, 5.8) of St. Vitus Dance or Calculus Crack. Take the steep trail with fixed line to the left of St Vitus Dance P1. This leads to a 3" crack; the first pitch of South Arete.