Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fred Beckey, Hank Mather, Don Claunch, 1959
Page Views: 2,773 total · 25/month
Shared By: Robert Fisher on May 26, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

P1: Climb the steep 3" crack for 20' where the angle backs down and the crack widens to 4"-5". Belay just below the obvious crux bulge, or at the flakes about 20' below. 5.8

p2: Climb through the bulge. It's easier than it looks. Climb up the 5.6 3" crack to a small dirt ledge, belay here on gear. 5.9 (crux)

Note: P1 was more difficult than P2.

p3: Scamper up the low-angle slab to the top, using the crack as necessary for pro. 5.4?

Location

Approach via the steep tree and dirt pitches (5.8, 5.8) of St. Vitus Dance or Calculus Crack. Take the steep trail with fixed line to the left of St Vitus Dance P1. This leads to a 3" crack; the first pitch of South Arete.

Descend by scrambling to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down. There are no bolted anchors on the South Arete. Rappelling would require leaving gear.

Protection

Single rack to 1", doubles #2-#4 (Camalot sizes)

Photos