Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
FA: Robin Barley, Gordie Smaill 1974
Page Views: 31,451 total · 146/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Jul 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


400 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1 From the base of the Apron climb up trees and cracks 5.7 to a treed ledge and belay off of a tree.

P2 Continue up a from the treed ledge through a discontinuous pitch off the left side. The clean splitter off the middle of the ledge is Ha7lh Skwalwen 5.10a which would get you to Baseline Ledge as well. Alternatively, you can climb St. Vitus' Direct 5.10a as a one pitch variation. See that entry for details.

P3 This next pitch is a long pitch starting with nice hand jams steepening at the top into a wide fist offwidth crack. Its tempting to place a big cam at the top although I find saving a #3 Camalot for the belay essential. This pitch ends on a small ledge below 3 prominent cracks.

P4 Climb up starting on the left crack to an obvious traverse, across the crack systems proing as you go. This is the crux pitch its exposed and the best on the route. (5.9)

P5 The final pitch from a ramp climb up to a 5.9 hand jam roof that I thought was 5.8 although stellar fun its very short. Then climb up easy slab for the rest of the rope and find a belay near the top of the Apron (could be a 6th pitch of easy slab).

Descent:

Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.

R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)

R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)

R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m

R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)

R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location Suggest change

This route starts on Baseline Ledge, hike from the parking lot staying left at the top of the hill and follow it out along the base and up. (I would recommend buying a guidebook Kevin Mclane recently Published an awesome extensive guide to Squamish)

Protection Suggest change

Single rack Camalots 0.5 to #3 doubles on #2, and a #3 maybe a 3.5. Some small cams i.e. Aliens, TCUs are usefull, and of course a full rack of nuts.

Photos

loading