Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
FA: Robin Barley, Gordie Smaill 1974
Page Views: 24,002 total · 138/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Jul 22, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details
Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures Lifted Details

Description

P1 From the base of the Apron climb up trees and cracks 5.7 to the base of a beautiful 5.9 jam crack. There is a small square of carpet on this belay assuring you are on route.

P2 Climb a nice 5.9 right facing dihedral with thin gear and mantel left at the top to a ledge this is the direct variation and should be done.

P3 This next pitch is a long pitch starting with nice hand jams steepening at the top into a wide fist offwidth crack. Its tempting to place a big cam at the top although I find saving a #3 Camalot for the belay essential. This pitch ends on a small ledge below 3 prominent cracks.

P4 Climb up starting on the left crack to an obvious traverse, across the crack systems proing as you go. This is the crux pitch its exposed and the best on the route. (5.9)

P5 The final pitch from a ramp climb up to a 5.9 hand jam roof that I thought was 5.8 although stellar fun its very short. Then climb up easy slab for the rest of the rope and find a belay near the top of the Apron (could be a 6th pitch of easy slab).

Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location

This route starts on Baseline Ledge, hike from the parking lot staying left at the top of the hill and follow it out along the base and up. (I would recommend buying a guidebook Kevin Mclane recently Published an awesome extensive guide to Squamish)

Protection

Single rack Camalots 0.5 to #3 doubles on #2, and a #3 maybe a 3.5. Some small cams i.e. Aliens, TCUs are usefull, and of course a full rack of nuts.

Photos