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> Stawamus Chief
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> N Apron
The Terror
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in North Apron
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68766, -123.14493 |
| FA: | FA Hamish Mutch, Tim Auger, 1965. FFA Jamie Finlayson, Eric Hughes, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 119 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Beatty on Jul 14, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The BIG SQUARE ROOF TRAVERSE on the Apron!
P1. 5.8 - 15m
Start up a large flake on the left side of the slab. Traverse upwards across the slab to reach the main belay under the fantastic roof.
P2. 5.11c - 12m
Traverse rightwards with jams, locks and under-clings through the well protectable fantastic roof corner. Comparable to a right leaning version of "Grand Daddy Overhang", but just might be better?
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