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Calculus Direct

Name: Calculus Direct
Rating: 2.6

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in North Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	49.68766, -123.14493
FA:	Kris Wild, Adrian Jones, Tavis Thomson
Page Views:	6,484 total · 47/month
Shared By:	Dave Holliday on Aug 26, 2014
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

One way to get to Baseline Ledge and the start of Calculus Crack is to climb the first two pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. This is an alternative method that provides a couple of fun pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Move up to the bolt and climb past it to get on to the slab to its right. Move a few feet to the right to get to a left-facing dihedral. Make a tricky move to get into the corner and climb it until some flakes are encountered (maybe 40 or 50 feet). Climb the flakes but trend to the right to a sloping ledge with several cracks above it. Make a gear belay here.

(This pitch is also the start for Start from Scratch; if you continue up the corner instead of stepping right, you'd be on that route.)

Pitch 2 (5.8): climb a steep hand crack, move slightly left on cracks, and climb a face with intermittent cracks and pods until you can see a two-bolt anchor. Traverse a few feet to the right to that anchor. Verbal communication with your second will be difficult from the top of the second pitch because of road noise and your second being out of sight.

You're now at the base of Calculus Crack.

(The route name and first ascent information was obtained from "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon.)

Location

The start of this is a bit to the left and uphill from the start of St. Vitus' Dance. Look carefully for a bolt in a shallow left-facing corner about ten feet off the ground; that's the start.