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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kris Wild, Adrian Jones, Tavis Thomson
Page Views: 1,574 total, 40/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Aug 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

One way to get to Baseline Ledge and the start of Calculus Crack is to climb the first two pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. This is an alternative method that provides a couple of fun pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Move up to the bolt and climb past it to get on to the slab to its right. Move a few feet to the right to get to a left-facing dihedral. Make a tricky move to get into the corner and climb it until some flakes are encountered (maybe 40 or 50 feet). Climb the flakes but trend to the right to a sloping ledge with several cracks above it. Make a gear belay here.

(This pitch is also the start for Start from Scratch; if you continue up the corner instead of stepping right, you'd be on that route.)

Pitch 2 (5.8): climb a steep hand crack, move slightly left on cracks, and climb a face with intermittent cracks and pods until you can see a two-bolt anchor. Traverse a few feet to the right to that anchor. Verbal communication with your second will be difficult from the top of the second pitch because of road noise and your second being out of sight.

You're now at the base of Calculus Crack.

(The route name and first ascent information was obtained from "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon.)

Location

The start of this is a bit to the left and uphill from the start of St. Vitus' Dance. Look carefully for a bolt in a shallow left-facing corner about ten feet off the ground; that's the start.

Protection

Same rack as for Calculus Crack. Mostly finger-sized gear for the corner on pitch one and finger- and hand-sized gear for the second pitch.

Photos

KrisW
 
KrisW  
 
Further to the previous comments, The first pitch was dirty and slippery due to the cleaning of the new route to it's left. It has since been buffed back to sparkly clean. Aug 28, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
This is a great route and imho, the only way to start Calculus Crack (assuming its dry). A little grunt getting into the corner and then some thin 5.9 up to some thank god jugs before moving right to the (optional) belay.

With a 70m line these pitches are easily linked to the bolts at the base of Calculus.

Also, in response to the previous comment- it's super clean, definitely not slippery, and while I wouldn't call it awkward, it is fairly engaging and not straight forward. Jul 14, 2017
ihategrigris
Vancouver, BC
 
ihategrigris   Vancouver, BC
 
This climb sucks. No matter what route you take after it, it will be the worse pitch you do all day. Dirty, slippery and awkward. If you have the option, go pull on trees instead, way more fun. Jun 12, 2017
Santiago Santacruz
Urbana, IL
 
Santiago Santacruz   Urbana, IL
 
First pitch remains wet long after rain (>7 sunny days in spring). Unless you want to aid it or feel comfortable on the 5.9W(wet) grade use St Vitus' Dance start up to Baseline ledge. Apr 7, 2016