All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Apron
Avg: 2.6 from 62 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Kris Wild, Adrian Jones, Tavis Thomson|
|Page Views:||1,614 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Holliday on Aug 26, 2014|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionOne way to get to Baseline Ledge and the start of Calculus Crack is to climb the first two pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. This is an alternative method that provides a couple of fun pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Move up to the bolt and climb past it to get on to the slab to its right. Move a few feet to the right to get to a left-facing dihedral. Make a tricky move to get into the corner and climb it until some flakes are encountered (maybe 40 or 50 feet). Climb the flakes but trend to the right to a sloping ledge with several cracks above it. Make a gear belay here.
(This pitch is also the start for Start from Scratch; if you continue up the corner instead of stepping right, you'd be on that route.)
Pitch 2 (5.8): climb a steep hand crack, move slightly left on cracks, and climb a face with intermittent cracks and pods until you can see a two-bolt anchor. Traverse a few feet to the right to that anchor. Verbal communication with your second will be difficult from the top of the second pitch because of road noise and your second being out of sight.
You're now at the base of Calculus Crack.
(The route name and first ascent information was obtained from "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon.)