Elevation: 251 ft
GPS: 49.684, -123.155 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,391 total · 362/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Oct 22, 2006 with improvements by Mark Roberts and 1 other
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.

The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.

On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.

Getting There

If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.

From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail that goes up a log staircase, traverses under a ledge, crosses some slabs and down a bit, then left and up into the woods. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff, where Starr Wall is another 100 meters down and to climber's right.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Malamute

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 170
High Mountain Woody
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Stefanie's Tears
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Old Style
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Paul's Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Cider Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Caboose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Hand Jive
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Slap and Tickle
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Rosebud
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Grub Street
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Quagmire Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Crescent Crack
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Overly Hanging Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
Clean Crack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Agonal
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Mountain Woody Starr Wall
 170
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stefanie's Tears Starr Wall
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Old Style Grub Street
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Paul's Crack Starr Wall
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cider Crack Grub Street
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Caboose Lower (CLOSED)
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hand Jive Lower (CLOSED)
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Slap and Tickle Starr Wall
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rosebud Grub Street
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Grub Street Grub Street
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Quagmire Crack Quagmire Area
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Crescent Crack Lower (CLOSED)
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Overly Hanging Out Overly Hanging Out
 13
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Clean Crack Lower (CLOSED)
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Agonal Grub Street
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Malamute »

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