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Areas in The Malamute

Cage, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Chasing Rainbows 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Grub Street 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Jacob's Wall 6 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Lower (CLOSED) 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Malamute Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Overly Hanging Out 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Quagmire Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Starr Wall 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Stooges Slab 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Terraces, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details
Access Issue: Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.

The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.

On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.

Getting There

If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.

From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail, across the logged area and look for a trail that heads up on to the tree ridge. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff between the Starr Wall and the Stooges Slab.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Malamute

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 129
High Mountain Woody
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Stefanie's Tears
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Old Style
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
Paul's Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Caboose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Hand Jive
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Slap and Tickle
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Id, The Wizard of
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Grub Street
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Quagmire Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Cling Peaches
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Crescent Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 6
Chasing Rainbows
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Overly Hanging Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
Clean Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Mountain Woody Starr Wall
 129
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stefanie's Tears Starr Wall
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Old Style Grub Street
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Paul's Crack Starr Wall
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Caboose Lower (CLOSED)
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hand Jive Lower (CLOSED)
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Slap and Tickle Starr Wall
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Id, The Wizard of Quagmire Area
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Grub Street Grub Street
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Quagmire Crack Quagmire Area
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Cling Peaches Grub Street
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Crescent Crack Lower (CLOSED)
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Chasing Rainbows Chasing Rainbows
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Overly Hanging Out Overly Hanging Out
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Clean Crack Lower (CLOSED)
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Malamute »

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Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Everybody: Please read the note about access issues. Also, please note that the more standard approach is to park at the Grand Wall parking lot, cross the road and take the trail over the top of the Malamute. However, just a few weeks ago (March, 2007) much of the top of the Malamute was logged! It's quite a sad sight. More details on this later. I don't have any current information about access to the top of the Malamute in light of this. Apr 15, 2007
ScottH  
As of 9/1/07, the majority of felled trees have been cleared from the top of the Malamute. It is straightforward to hike through the clear cut using the trail that begins from the parking lot at the chief. For updates on access at the Malamute, refer to this page maintained by the Squamish Access Society:

squamishaccess.ca/News/Mala…

The logging was illegal and will carry a fine of $1,000-$10,000 per tree. At 1,400+ trees, that adds up pretty quick. Sep 6, 2007
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
how can an illegal clearcut like this happen in such a high profile area? Was there a fine? I was there soon after and did not realize it was illegal. There again this weekend and marveled at the 6' tall ferns. Jun 24, 2014

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