Elevation: 251 ft
GPS: 49.6839, -123.15518
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 102,761 total · 514/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Oct 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Access Issue: Camping Details

Description

This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.

The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.

On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.

Getting There

If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.

From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail that goes up a log staircase, traverses under a ledge, crosses some slabs and down a bit, then left and up into the woods. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff, where Starr Wall is another 100 meters down and to climber's right.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Malamute

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 216
High Mountain Woody
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
Stefanie's Tears
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Old Style
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 98
Paul's Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Cider Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Caboose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Hand Jive
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Slap and Tickle
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Grub Street
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Quagmire Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Crescent Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 12
Chasing Rainbows
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 21
Overly Hanging Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 44
Clean Crack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Agonal
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Mountain Woody Starr Wall
 216
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stefanie's Tears Starr Wall
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Old Style Grub Street
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Paul's Crack Starr Wall
 98
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cider Crack Grub Street
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Caboose Lower (CLOSED)
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hand Jive Lower (CLOSED)
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Slap and Tickle Starr Wall
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Grub Street Grub Street
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Quagmire Crack Quagmire Area
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Crescent Crack Lower (CLOSED)
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Chasing Rainbows Chasing Rainbows
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Overly Hanging Out Overly Hanging Out
 21
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Clean Crack Lower (CLOSED)
 44
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Agonal Grub Street
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Malamute »

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