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Elevation: 251 ft 77 m
GPS: 49.6839, -123.15518
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 104,620 total · 489/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Oct 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.

The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.

On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.

Getting There Suggest change

If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.

From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail that goes up a log staircase, traverses under a ledge, crosses some slabs and down a bit, then left and up into the woods. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff, where Starr Wall is another 100 meters down and to climber's right.

61 Total Climbs

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Location: The Malamute Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Malamute

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 238
High Mountain Woody
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Stephanie's Tears
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Old Style
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 106
Paul's Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
Cider Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Caboose (CLOSED)
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Hand Jive (CLOSED)
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Slap and Tickle
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Sodbuster
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Quagmire Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 31
Crescent Crack (CLOSED)
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 34
Grub Street
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Overly Hanging Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 52
Clean Crack (CLOSED)
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Agonal
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Mountain Woody Starr Wall
 238
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stephanie's Tears Starr Wall
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Old Style Grub Street
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Paul's Crack Starr Wall
 106
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cider Crack Grub Street
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Caboose (CLOSED) Lower (CLOSED*)
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hand Jive (CLOSED) Lower (CLOSED*)
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Slap and Tickle Starr Wall
 47
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sodbuster Grub Street
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Quagmire Crack Quagmire Area
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Crescent Crack (CLOSED) Lower (CLOSED*)
 31
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Grub Street Grub Street
 34
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Overly Hanging Out Overly Hanging Out
 24
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Clean Crack (CLOSED) Lower (CLOSED*)
 52
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Agonal Grub Street
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Malamute »

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