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Starr Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Starr Wall
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Adhesiveness T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lemming Condition T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Paul's Shwack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Science Friction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sorry John! T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stephanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 214 ft | 65 m |
| GPS: |
49.68214, -123.15604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 17,490 total · 215/month | |
| Shared By: | Kate Lynn on Nov 18, 2017 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Getting There
The main approach trail, as of 2019, brings you out close to the top of the Malamute. The Starr Wall is 100 meters or so south, or climbers' right, of where the trail comes out to the cliff. Note, the slab with sport routes just to climbers right at this point is -not- Stooges slab.
If it's your first visit, it's best to rappel, and scope out the trail down to the wall as you do so. To find the rappel, walk back into the woods a few meters, down a slab, a bit of trail, and then you'll see the top of High Mountain Woody's crack (bolts but no chains, to the side of the topout). To climber's left, you'll see bolts and chains, above Paul's crack. Use those.
The trail down to the Starr Wall from the approach trail is heady and sandy at points, and may involve a fixed line. The book will tell you, in a highlighted section, to use it at all costs. You probably should, but only once you know where you're going.
If it's your first visit, it's best to rappel, and scope out the trail down to the wall as you do so. To find the rappel, walk back into the woods a few meters, down a slab, a bit of trail, and then you'll see the top of High Mountain Woody's crack (bolts but no chains, to the side of the topout). To climber's left, you'll see bolts and chains, above Paul's crack. Use those.
The trail down to the Starr Wall from the approach trail is heady and sandy at points, and may involve a fixed line. The book will tell you, in a highlighted section, to use it at all costs. You probably should, but only once you know where you're going.
Classic Climbing Routes at Starr Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (9)
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