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> Starr Wall
High Mountain Woody
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 143
votes
Routes in Starr Wall
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High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shallow End, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stefanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft |
| FA: | Glenn Payan, May 1996 |
| Page Views: | 5,367 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | ihategrigris on Mar 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Access issues at the Lower Malamute.
Details
Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: access-society.ca/regions/s…
Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.
Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally
Details
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Description
This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.
It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM. Sep 6, 2007
Vancouver, BC
I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving. Oct 13, 2009
Squamish
Beautiful setting. Mar 11, 2013
Squamish, British Columbia
Portland, OR
Seattle, Wa.