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All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Malamute > Starr Wall

High Mountain Woody

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 3.4 from 125 votes

Routes in Starr Wall

High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shallow End, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stefanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Glenn Payan, May 1996
Page Views: 4,803 total · 36/month
Shared By: ihategrigris on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.

Location

Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.

Protection

Cams: doubles to 2", nuts.

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Photos

High Mountain Woody Topo
High Mountain Woody Topo
 1
Jamieson enjoining this classic climb
Jamieson enjoining this classic climb
 1
Fun, easy climb with a great view
Fun, easy climb with a great view
 1
Bad ass senior citizen soloist.
Bad ass senior citizen soloist.
 0
Awesome 5.9 crack climbing on High Mountain Woody.
Awesome 5.9 crack climbing on High Mountain Woody.
 0
Stupid fun
Stupid fun
 0
Last jug of an awesome climb. Great setting!
Last jug of an awesome climb. Great setting!
 0
jade littlewood cruising up the line
jade littlewood cruising up the line
 0
Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, climbers are visible on High Mountain Wood and Slap and Tickle. The most prominent rock formation in the background is the Papoose. The body of water is Howe Sound.
Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, c…
 0

8 Comments

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ScottH
 
ScottH  
 
This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.

It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM. Sep 6, 2007
Alpine Carl
 
Alpine Carl  
 
If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse. Mar 10, 2008
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.8+
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.8+
Squampton classic. Just perfect for the grade, really. Beautiful view, exposure, great protection and nice length. No complaints.

I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving. Oct 13, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.

Beautiful setting. Mar 11, 2013
Al Pogue
Squamish, British Columbia
Al Pogue   Squamish, British Columbia
The gift that keeps on giving. Great, great route. Oct 6, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
A low crux leads to crack swimming. Seriously, after the first 20 feet it's just fun climbing for what seems like forever. And then it's over, and you'll want to get right back on it. A single set of cams is plenty unless you really want to sew up the easy stuff. Jul 19, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
FA: Glenn Payan, May 1996- can you believe these great cracks where not climbed before? Sep 23, 2015
Ryan Lynne
  5.9
Ryan Lynne  
  5.9
Awesome climb, starts out at 5.9 and just gets easier as you go higher. Note that you can make it even longer by instead starting out on Stephanie's Tears on the next terrace down. Also, it is possible to get to the base without rapping down at all. I would recommend a double rack for newer leaders but a single rack is more than adequate for an experienced leader. If in doubt bring more than you need as it is a 50 meter pitch! May 22, 2016

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