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Routes in Starr Wall

High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shallow End, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stefanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Glenn Payan, Graham Rowbotham, 1995
Page Views: 1,204 total, 24/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

A great challenging 10b.
I tried to enter this in meters, but it kept turning 50 m to 50 ft.
I did the Gonch start which is about 40' below the Woody.Same as Stefanie's Tears start but goes left where ST goes right. Also 5.9. Makes it a 55m pitch.
The Woody start is good too, cuts right up thinner crack that a nut tool was needed for cleaning, might be 10a.
When you near the View Ledge you can get a cam in the top of the Gonch crack with a long sling, but don't climb to the ledge, head for the left arching thin crack.

Location

starts same as High Mtn. Woody, or better yet start with Gonch Pull to the right to make it even longer. Where that route ends on the ledge for the 2nd pitch start of Stefanie's Tears, or a little before the ledge go left on thin left trending crack. Before you run into High Mtn. Woody near the top go more right and up. Finish is thin and hard to protect.

Protection

plenty of cams for this long pitch, many small cams and offset brass nuts good for upper half.
Gonch pull takes medium to large nuts, so you can conserve cams for up higher.
The top out is a bit run-out after the tiny gear seam runs out.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10b
This is an absolute classic. Start with Gonch Pull traverse out of Stephanie's Tears for a full value 50m route. I placed 19 pieces on this route, nothing larger than a #1 C4. Definitely double up on gear from 0 Master Cam to .75 C4.

The crux comes at the top, but the climbing is fairly relentless although there are a lot of good rests.

The top traverse is indeed tricky. However, I found the protection to be super solid and not run-out at all. This doesn't make the move any less exciting though. I tried multiple times to climb to the top of the flake then step right, but... Jul 19, 2015