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Routes in Starr Wall

High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shallow End, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stefanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Glenn Payan, Paul Starr, 1995
Page Views: 1,381 total, 11/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

This good route has a finger crack crux in the first ten feet and fun but easier climbing above.

Location

Just left of High Mountain Woody, but starting from a terrace fifty or sixty feet higher than the start of HMW. The easier approach is probably to just rappel in since the trail takes you to the top and there is an easily accessible bolted (two bolts, no chains or rings but they aren't necessary). Alternatively you could continue north along the top of the crag, drop down a level between "Smell of Nuprin" and "Remembrance Day", then walk south until a fixed hand line will take you down to the starting terrace.

Note that McLane's guidebook has a wee typo relevant to the second approach described above. Remembrance Day is listed as route 385, but the line on the topo is labeled 365. 365 is correctly labelled elsewhere as a Lower Malamute route.

Protection

Finger sized nuts or cams for the start. A small selection of larger nuts and hand sized cams for the rest.

Photos

Laralyn Mowers
Astoria, NY
 
Laralyn Mowers   Astoria, NY
 
You'll want to hit this up early in the day. The winds pick up around noon, and are distractingly strong after mid-afternoon. Look out on the water before you rap down. If there's more than a handful of wind sailers, try again tomorrow.

Rap down, and then climb back up. The pro is great, the moves are cruiser (feels pretty soft for the rating), and there are plenty of foot holds outside of the splitter if you want them. Jul 30, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
Sinker finger-locks and straightforward toe jam for a single move, then it's just fun. Highly recommend protecting the belayer (sling a tree or place some low pro). I started up the face left of the crack before stepping back right, which may have avoided the off-the-ground crux, but there wasn't any tape to follow so it didn't feel like cheating. Jul 19, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Fun stuff, easy first 10a. Fingers and tricky feet for the first 20 feet with a short crux where the finger crack ends and the features begin. You can protect these moves with a blue metolius at your knees and nothing above you. You'll be rewarded with beautiful jugs after a few moves though, so just punch it.

Crack seperates into two, both breaking left but one above the other. I found better pro and holds in the upper crack, but make sure to throw a few slings on your gear before breaking left. Good finger locks take you through the traverse section, and the difficulty drops significantly towards the top.

Gear blue metolius to a #2 Camalot. Doubles in fingers - tight hands if you want to sew it up. Jan 22, 2013