Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Robin Barley, Andreas Maurer, Kevin McLane, 1976, recleaned in 1998 by Andrew Boyd.
Page Views: 2,261 total · 42/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jun 24, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


This is a great finger crack and I am surprised to not already find it here. MP seems to not have caught on in Squamish, at least not the off the beaten track routes.
It is listed as 10c in the books, seems lots harder then Bulletheads east or Peasants route, more like the last Liquid Gold pitch so maybe 10d.( was considered 10b in the 1970/80's)
Maybe it is the approach. We dutifully rapped in a couple of years ago for the Grub St. Connection, and for this. I kept seeing climbers walk in from the north and south along the railway and am informed that the new rail management does not mind the climbers. So if that is true it would be nice to approach by Canadian Compromise, (still dirty )by hiking in from south or north side.
There is a sketchy flake mid way up that I presume has always been that way, just be careful.
A good way to climb out would be on Jacobs other Ladder which is a 5.8 dyke traverse just above which is described as being bold, and it is.


If you look at the Malamute photo on the header of this page taken from the log yard across the railway you will see an obvious white rock fall scar at the north end ( occurred in 1979) and the corner in the middle of this is Canadian Compromise and long splitter crack above is Quagmire. We rapped in with double ropes( at top of Besot and Flushed) and ended up at the very rusty bolts of Milkwood Forest. Rapped to base and fought our way up through moss past 2) 1/4" bolts and loose flake- not recommended.( original start of Porco on the first ascent.)
The McLane book recommends the Smithereens approach, I noticed bolts over there without hangers.
Rapping down Stone Cold would put you right above Quagmire if you wanted to rap.


It is 40- 45 Meter pitch so having many finger size is recommended. Double rack to 3", maybe 3 each in the 1/4"- 1/2" size or lots of nuts work too. Bolted belay on ledge at base and tree belay at top. There is a 2 bolt anchor about 10' north but I came up the OW finish which seems to make sense with a tree right there.I was not prepared for the OW, placed a #2 at start of it and layback up to top, could use a #4, but not really needed.I was informed by a local that the OW finish used to be full of vegetation and I guess that is why there is the bolted anchor off left at the top.


Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
Ahhh.... description sounds hard... we'll see how it goes.... Oct 23, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Epic line! Another amazing moderate on the Lower Malamute. Hard moves right off the anchor, the route offers steep, sustained and challenging movement until a no-hands rest on a block feature mid-route. Pumpy. After the block there's some fun flake climbing, then occasional hard sections interspersed with adequate rests.

Besides the obviously amazing position of the route, what stood out for me was the amount of unique movement and problem solving required. The section before the mid-route shake-out was textbook splitter fingers technique, but most of the route required a bit of creativity and a big bag of tricks. Very engaging.

Misread Geoff's description of the wide section - took a #4, but after not seeing any offwidth section ahead of me I just placed it because I could. Like Geoff, I arrived at the top with a #2 C4, placed it and just ran it out. It's pretty secure cupped hands and fists though, and when it gets wider it's much easier.

Took the recommendation of taking triples from .5 to #2 C4s, and was glad I did. If you took 8 green Camalots you would probably place them. Tree anchor. Get on this thing. Apr 29, 2016

this is a stupendous blockbuster of a pitch at the grade, on par with any pitch of the grade that i have climbed anywhere. geoff's description and mark robert's comments are dead on. i was really blown away by this pitch. the position is superb, the climbing sustained and beautiful. the mirror like sheen of the glacier polished face will ensure that your crack skills are fully engaged. i thought this thing made exasperator look (and climb) like klahanie crack (and exasperator is a f___ing great route!). yowza!

the first bit of climbing right off the belay is a bit awkward, and you have to fight through a short section of dirt chimney and a stump. normally i would consider this a major blemish, but the climbing above more than makes up for it.

rack recommendation: heavy. it's a long sustained pitch. Jul 5, 2017