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Grub Street
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 34 votes
Type: | Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Peter Croft and Tami Knight 1978 |
Page Views: | 4,076 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Aug 2, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The Grub Street area has many possible link ups and variations. What's commonly known as Grub Street is a short 11a tips crack from the Lower Ledge to the Midway Ledge, with different options above and below. The different combinations have different names in different guidebooks, but the common line for Grub Street is as follows.
P1 - 10b - Start up the corner of Old Style but go out right along a dyke past bolts and eventually up to the Lower Ledge and an anchor. This is the first pitch of Aganol.
P2 - 11a - Head up into the pod and then into a tips crack up to Midway Ledge.
P3 - 10b - Follow the crack just right of the belay up past bolts on a slab to the base of the Stooges Slab. This pitch is called Sodbusters.
P4 - 5.9 - Finish on one of the Stooges Slab routes.
P3 Alt - 10c. Go left on Midway Ledge to climb the line at the far left of the wall at 10c, 50m. It's worth switching anchors or finishing the 11a pitch by moving to the far left anchor above Cider Crack. Climb past a few cracks up to and around the obvious overlaps, finishing with some bolted slab moves. This brings you to the top of the wall.
P1 - 10b - Start up the corner of Old Style but go out right along a dyke past bolts and eventually up to the Lower Ledge and an anchor. This is the first pitch of Aganol.
P2 - 11a - Head up into the pod and then into a tips crack up to Midway Ledge.
P3 - 10b - Follow the crack just right of the belay up past bolts on a slab to the base of the Stooges Slab. This pitch is called Sodbusters.
P4 - 5.9 - Finish on one of the Stooges Slab routes.
P3 Alt - 10c. Go left on Midway Ledge to climb the line at the far left of the wall at 10c, 50m. It's worth switching anchors or finishing the 11a pitch by moving to the far left anchor above Cider Crack. Climb past a few cracks up to and around the obvious overlaps, finishing with some bolted slab moves. This brings you to the top of the wall.
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