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Routes in Penny Lane

Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Peter Croft and Tami Knight, 1978
Page Views: 19,479 total · 134/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

169 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a legendary Squamish finger crack that starts just left of Penny Lane.

Start with a few boulder moves off the ground, this leads to a great finger crack above.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small finger size gear and nuts.
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
What a great cack. I thought this climb was much harder than it looked. Intense jamming all the way with excellent gear. This is the finger crack against which all other finger cracks should be judged. Feb 26, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Those are some high accolades Jay. I always thought of Butterballs and Equinox like that. I'll have to get out there and see for myself. My wife and I will be in Whistler in September. Jun 24, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
spectacular- doesnt let up for a minute! great route- need to get back and lead it before we leave! Jul 2, 2007
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.

I've done it several times since and I have to say for as low of an angle , it probably does deserve the 5.11b/c since the feet are slimy and the finger locks while positive , are really positive (ie: as said before, my fingers protest). Gear is great and is a good route to push your limit on. Jul 14, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I have thin fingers and all, but I still thought it was shallow and flaring at the hardest moves. Definately more insecure than hard. I think of hard finger cracks as being biting and hard more than just too insecure to get purchase in... then again, perhaps better shade or cooler weather would have helped.
The crux was switching from left side to right in my case. or rather, not having noticed that I should have until too late... Jul 14, 2009

yeah, i remember the crack switch being the crux, hot temps making it feel a bit slippery, and 12 straight days of finger cracks making my pinkies and index fingers protest. Jul 14, 2009
Brandontru   Nevada
Did this back a few years ago. Memorable indeed. Had my first fall on my first bit of gear. Thank you TCU's you saved my life :)

Small gear and stoppers, good stuff. Mar 4, 2010
Absolutely awesome finger crack. This and Clean Crack were a couple of the best short climbs I did there! Apr 8, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Flashed this one yesterday after years of walking by it and thinking "some day". Getting from the first finger lock to the second was the hardest part for me (ie. getting off the ground :P). After that it felt like it was all there with the only real struggle being the last one or two moves.

Beautiful line with every hold being just what you need.

Stellar! Sep 10, 2012

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