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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Peter Croft and Tami Knight, 1978
Page Views: 18,474 total, 133/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This is a legendary Squamish finger crack that starts just left of Penny Lane.

Start with a few boulder moves off the ground, this leads to a great finger crack above.

Protection

Small finger size gear and nuts.
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
spectacular- doesnt let up for a minute! great route- need to get back and lead it before we leave! Jul 2, 2007
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.11b/c
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.11b/c
Flashed this one yesterday after years of walking by it and thinking "some day". Getting from the first finger lock to the second was the hardest part for me (ie. getting off the ground :P). After that it felt like it was all there with the only real struggle being the last one or two moves.

Beautiful line with every hold being just what you need.

Stellar! Sep 10, 2012
Absolutely awesome finger crack. This and Clean Crack were a couple of the best short climbs I did there! Apr 8, 2011
Brandontru
Nevada
  5.11
Brandontru   Nevada
  5.11
Did this back a few years ago. Memorable indeed. Had my first fall on my first bit of gear. Thank you TCU's you saved my life :)

Small gear and stoppers, good stuff. Mar 4, 2010
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
yeah, i remember the crack switch being the crux, hot temps making it feel a bit slippery, and 12 straight days of finger cracks making my pinkies and index fingers protest. Jul 14, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
I have thin fingers and all, but I still thought it was shallow and flaring at the hardest moves. Definately more insecure than hard. I think of hard finger cracks as being biting and hard more than just too insecure to get purchase in... then again, perhaps better shade or cooler weather would have helped.
The crux was switching from left side to right in my case. or rather, not having noticed that I should have until too late... Jul 14, 2009
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
  5.11b/c
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
  5.11b/c
fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.

I've done it several times since and I have to say for as low of an angle , it probably does deserve the 5.11b/c since the feet are slimy and the finger locks while positive , are really positive (ie: as said before, my fingers protest). Gear is great and is a good route to push your limit on. Jul 14, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Those are some high accolades Jay. I always thought of Butterballs and Equinox like that. I'll have to get out there and see for myself. My wife and I will be in Whistler in September. Jun 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11c
What a great cack. I thought this climb was much harder than it looked. Intense jamming all the way with excellent gear. This is the finger crack against which all other finger cracks should be judged. Feb 26, 2007