Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ward Robinson, Blake Robinson, 1979
Page Views: 8,065 total · 55/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


123 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

It's impossible to miss this climb once at the crag. Start by scrambling onto the obvious ledge. The hand and finger locks on this crack are great, but it's too small for solid foot jams in most places. Small edges provide thin but adequate feet in most places...except the crux. A very fun and well protected climb. It might be a tough on-sight for a beginning 10a leader, but that shouldn't deter anyone from trying.

Protection

Finger and hand-sized nuts and cams. Take as many or as few as you like. Chains at the top, although you could walk off if you wanted to.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
Great climbing with extremely good gear. You could place a bomber piece every 2 feet if you wanted to. A perfect intro 5.10a lead for someone. Aug 19, 2007
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I agree exactly with Andy's comments. Ample opportunities for gear! Mar 2, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Makes for a nice first .10a trad lead or solo. Jun 15, 2008
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Agree, perfect first 5.10. Eats gear in a variety of sizes. Apr 21, 2009
JSH

 
JSH    
 
Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it! May 8, 2009
Mark van Eijk
  5.10a
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10a
Excellent route, quite sustained and surprisingly pumpy! Protects very well but don't get caught sewing it up or the pump can catch up with you (it has for me!). Do it! Then do it again if you get the chance! Sep 2, 2011
Charlie Jonas
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Charlie Jonas   Jackson, Wyoming
 
Eats medium sized nuts & finger cams (.5-1). I placed 13 pieces total ;) Jul 24, 2017