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Elevation: 304 ft 93 m
GPS: 49.70609, -123.14009
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,198,889 total · 5,421/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There Suggest change

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you'll see Boulder Gully to the east and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

601 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Smoke Bluffs Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 354
Laughing Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 328
Octopus Garden in the Shade
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 153
First Class
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 593
Penny Lane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 178
Wonderland
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 506
Flying Circus
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 384
Neat and Cool
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 314
The Zip
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 211
Smoke Bluff Connection
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 159
[Redacted]
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 274
Popeye and the Raven
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 131
Supervalue
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 222
Partners In Crime
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 141
Yorkshire Gripper
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 343
Crime of the Century
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Laughing Crack Wall Area
 354
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Octopus Garden in the Shade Octopus Garden
 328
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
First Class Funarama
 153
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Penny Lane Penny Lane
 593
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wonderland Pixie Corner
 178
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Flying Circus Neat & Cool
 506
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neat and Cool Neat & Cool
 384
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Zip Zip > Zip (South)
 314
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Smoke Bluff Connection Wall Area
 211
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
[Redacted] [Redacted]
 159
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Popeye and the Raven Penny Lane
 274
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Supervalue Boulder Gully
 131
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Partners In Crime Penny Lane
 222
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Yorkshire Gripper Penny Lane
 141
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Crime of the Century Penny Lane
 343
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Smoke Bluffs »

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