Elevation: 304 ft
GPS: 49.706, -123.14 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 929,268 total · 5,005/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

447 Total Climbs

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Location: The Smoke Bluffs Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 263
Laughing Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 229
Octopus Garden in the Shade
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
First Class
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 468
Penny Lane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 148
Wonderland
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 392
Flying Circus
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 291
Neat and Cool
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 174
The Zip
Trad
Zip
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 161
Smoke Bluff Connection
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 125
[Redacted]
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 206
Popeye and the Raven
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 80
Supervalue
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 154
Partners In Crime
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 106
Yorkshire Gripper
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 257
Crime of the Century
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Laughing Crack Wall Area
 263
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Octopus Garden in the Shade Octopus Garden
 229
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
First Class Funarama
 109
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Penny Lane Penny Lane
 468
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wonderland Pixie Corner
 148
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Flying Circus Neat & Cool
 392
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neat and Cool Neat & Cool
 291
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Zip Zip
 174
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Smoke Bluff Connection Wall Area
 161
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
[Redacted] Split Beaver
 125
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Popeye and the Raven Penny Lane
 206
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Supervalue Boulder Gully
 80
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Partners In Crime Penny Lane
 154
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Yorkshire Gripper Penny Lane
 106
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Crime of the Century Penny Lane
 257
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Smoke Bluffs »

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