Elevation: 304 ft
GPS: 49.706, -123.14 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 327,445 total · 2,095/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

398 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Smoke Bluffs Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 188
● Laughing Crack
Trad
Wall Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 229
● Quarryman
Trad
Penny Lane
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 162
● Octopus Garden in the Shade
Trad, TR
Octopus Garden
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 83
● First Class
Trad
Funarama
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 370
● Penny Lane
Trad
Penny Lane
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 119
● Wonderland
Trad
Pixie Corner
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 303
● Flying Circus
Trad
Neat & Cool
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 223
● Neat and Cool
Trad
Neat & Cool
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 118
● The Zip
Trad
Zip
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 123
● Smoke Bluff Connection
Trad 4 pitches
Wall Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 93
● Split Beaver
Trad
Split Beaver
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 157
● Popeye and the Raven
Sport
Penny Lane
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 108
● Partners In Crime
Trad
Penny Lane
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 74
● Yorkshire Gripper
Trad
Penny Lane
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 198
● Crime of the Century
Trad
Penny Lane
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Laughing Crack Wall Area
 188
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Quarryman Penny Lane
 229
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Octopus Garden in the Shade Octopus Garden
 162
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● First Class Funarama
 83
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Penny Lane Penny Lane
 370
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Wonderland Pixie Corner
 119
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Flying Circus Neat & Cool
 303
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Neat and Cool Neat & Cool
 223
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● The Zip Zip
 118
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Smoke Bluff Connection Wall Area
 123
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Split Beaver Split Beaver
 93
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Popeye and the Raven Penny Lane
 157
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Partners In Crime Penny Lane
 108
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Yorkshire Gripper Penny Lane
 74
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
● Crime of the Century Penny Lane
 198
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Smoke Bluffs »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

Smokebluffs Crag Map
Smokebluffs Crag Map
 3
The Smoke Bluffs
The Smoke Bluffs
 0

1 Comment

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Peter Spindloe
BC
Peter Spindloe   BC
There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.

There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now. May 10, 2009