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The Smoke Bluffs Rock Climbing
Areas in The Smoke Bluffs
2nd Ave
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19
[Redacted]
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6
Alexis
3 /
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3
Auntie Gravity
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3
Black Zawn, The
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3
Boulder Gully
10 /
2 /
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10 /
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22
Bughouse Heights
7 /
1 /
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8
Burgers and Fries
40 /
9 /
17 /
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50
Cabin Boy's Office
7 /
2 /
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8
Call It A Day
8 /
0 /
2 /
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8
Crag X
27 /
2 /
1 /
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29
Crystal Wall
2 /
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2
Elephant's Arse
3 /
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3
Fatty Bolger and Ferret's Folly
4 /
6 /
3 /
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9
Fern Gully
4 /
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3 /
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4
Free and Easy
15 /
6 /
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21
Funarama
19 /
1 /
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20
Funarama- The Nursery
6 /
1 /
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7
Gravity Train
0 /
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9 /
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9
Gumby's Wall
5 /
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3 /
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5
High Cliff
16 /
2 /
9 /
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18
Island in the Sky
3 /
2 /
1 /
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4
Junkfood Wall
3 /
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3
Krack Rock
8 /
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8
Lumberland
11 /
4 /
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4 /
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17
Lunch Break Wall
1 /
1 /
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2
Neat and Cool
37 /
5 /
4 /
4 /
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43
Nubile Woman
1 /
1 /
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2
Octopus Garden
11 /
1 /
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12
One Toque Wall
4 /
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1 /
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4
Parking Lot Wall
18 /
5 /
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23
Penny Lane
30 /
6 /
1 /
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35
Pink Cliff
6 /
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6
Pixie Corner
11 /
3 /
3 /
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13
Pleasure Palace
1 /
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1
Ravens Dell
1 /
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1
Respiration Rock
4 /
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4
Roadside Distraction
3 /
1 /
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4
Ronin's Corner
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6 /
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14
Runestone Wall
6 /
1 /
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7
Spiderfly
2 /
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2
Themyscira
1 /
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1
Tunnel Rock
11 /
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1 /
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11
Vandalarium, The
1 /
2 /
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3
Wall Area
17 /
3 /
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19
Zip, The
11 /
2 /
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12
| Elevation: | 304 ft |
| GPS: |
49.70609, -123.14009 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 1,192,117 total · 5,807/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.
The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.
The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.
The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Getting There
Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.
Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.
Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Laughing Crack | Wall Area |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | |
| ● Octopus Garden in the Shade | Octopus Garden |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | |
| ● Penny Lane | Penny Lane |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Wonderland | Pixie Corner |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Flying Circus | Neat & Cool |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Neat and Cool | Neat & Cool |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● The Zip | Zip > Zip (South) |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Smoke Bluff Connection | Wall Area |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches | |
| ● [Redacted] | [Redacted] |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
| ● Popeye and the Raven | Penny Lane |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad | |
| ● Supervalue | Boulder Gully |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad | |
| ● Partners In Crime | Penny Lane |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | |
| ● Werewolves of London | Penny Lane |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | |
| ● Yorkshire Gripper | Penny Lane |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad | |
| ● Crime of the Century | Penny Lane |
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad |
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