Elevation: 304 ft
GPS: 49.706, -123.14 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 699,479 total · 4,018/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

413 Total Climbs

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Location: The Smoke Bluffs Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 245
Laughing Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 291
Quarryman
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 214
Octopus Garden in the Shade
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 104
First Class
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 443
Penny Lane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 140
Wonderland
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 368
Flying Circus
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 277
Neat and Cool
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 146
The Zip
Trad
Zip
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 153
Smoke Bluff Connection
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 114
Split Beaver
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 197
Popeye and the Raven
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 142
Partners In Crime
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 94
Yorkshire Gripper
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 236
Crime of the Century
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Laughing Crack Wall Area
 245
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Quarryman Penny Lane
 291
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Octopus Garden in the Shade Octopus Garden
 214
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
First Class Funarama
 104
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Penny Lane Penny Lane
 443
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wonderland Pixie Corner
 140
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Flying Circus Neat & Cool
 368
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neat and Cool Neat & Cool
 277
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Zip Zip
 146
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Smoke Bluff Connection Wall Area
 153
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Split Beaver Split Beaver
 114
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Popeye and the Raven Penny Lane
 197
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Partners In Crime Penny Lane
 142
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Yorkshire Gripper Penny Lane
 94
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Crime of the Century Penny Lane
 236
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Smoke Bluffs »

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