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Areas in The Smoke Bluffs
2nd Ave
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19
Alexis
3 /
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3
Auntie Gravity
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3
Black Zawn, The
2 /
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2
Boulder Gully
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19
Bughouse Heights
6 /
1 /
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7
Burgers and Fries
34 /
9 /
16 /
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43
Cabin Boy's Office
7 /
2 /
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8
Call It A Day
6 /
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1 /
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6
Crag X
13 /
1 /
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14
Crystal Wall
1 /
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1
Elephant's Arse
3 /
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3
Fatty Bolger and Ferret's Folly
3 /
5 /
2 /
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7
Fern Gully
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3 /
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4
Free and Easy
5 /
4 /
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9
Funarama
16 /
1 /
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17
Funarama- The Nursery
6 /
1 /
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7
Gumby's Wall
5 /
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3 /
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5
High Cliff
13 /
1 /
9 /
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14
Island in the Sky
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2 /
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4
Junkfood Wall
3 /
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3
Krack Rock
6 /
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6
Lumberland
11 /
4 /
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4 /
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17
Lunch Break Wall
1 /
1 /
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2
Neat and Cool
31 /
4 /
4 /
2 /
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35
Nubile Woman
1 /
1 /
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2
Octopus Garden
10 /
1 /
3 /
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11
One Toque Wall
3 /
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3
Parking Lot Wall
5 /
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5
Penny Lane
21 /
7 /
1 /
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27
Pink Cliff
6 /
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6
Pixie Corner
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12
Respiration Rock
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8
Ronin's Corner
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12
Runestone Wall
6 /
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6
Spiderfly
2 /
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2
Split Beaver
5 /
1 /
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6
Tunnel Rock
9 /
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1 /
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9
Wall Area
17 /
2 /
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18
Zip, The
3 /
1 /
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3
| Elevation: | 303 ft |
| GPS: | 49.706, -123.14 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 283,501 total · 1,863/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally
Details
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot
Details
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Description
This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.
The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.
The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.
The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Getting There
Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.
Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.
Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Laughing Crack | Wall Area |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | |
| ● Quarryman | Penny Lane |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
| ● Octopus Garden in the Shade | Octopus Garden |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | |
| ● First Class | Funarama |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
| ● Penny Lane | Penny Lane |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Wonderland | Pixie Corner |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Flying Circus | Neat and Cool |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Neat and Cool | Neat and Cool |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● The Zip | Zip |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Smoke Bluff Connection | Wall Area |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches | |
| ● Split Beaver | Split Beaver |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
| ● Popeye and the Raven | Penny Lane |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Partners In Crime | Penny Lane |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | |
| ● Yorkshire Gripper | Penny Lane |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad | |
| ● Crime of the Century | Penny Lane |
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad |
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1 Comment
More About The Smoke Bluffs
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Guidebooks (5)
BC
There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now. May 10, 2009