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Areas in The Smoke Bluffs

2nd Ave 15 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Alexis 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Auntie Gravity 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Black Zawn, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Boulder Gully 8 / 2 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Bughouse Heights 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Burgers and Fries 33 / 9 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Cabin Boy's Office 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Call It A Day 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Crag X 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Crystal Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elephant's Arse 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Fatty Bolger and Ferret's Folly 3 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Fern Gully 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Funarama 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Funarama- The Nusery 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Gumby's Wall 5 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
High Cliff 13 / 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Island in the Sky 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Junkfood Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Krack Rock 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lumberland 11 / 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Lunch Break Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mamquam River Campground 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Neat and Cool 31 / 4 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Nubile Woman 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Octopus Garden 10 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
One Toque Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Penny Lane 21 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Pink Cliff 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Pixie Corner 10 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Respiration Rock 4 / 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Ronin's Corner 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Runestone Wall 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Spiderfly 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Split Beaver 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Tunnel Rock 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Wall Area 16 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Zip, The 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

361 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Smoke Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 158
Cat Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 138
Laughing Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 191
Mosquito
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 194
Quarryman
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 133
Octopus Garden in the Shade
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 316
Penny Lane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 96
Wonderland
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 261
Flying Circus
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 194
Neat and Cool
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 103
The Zip
Trad
Zip
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 100
Smoke Bluff Connection
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 80
Split Beaver
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 126
Popeye and the Raven
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 90
Partners In Crime
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 163
Crime of the Century
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cat Crack Neat and Cool
 158
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Laughing Crack Wall Area
 138
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mosquito Wall Area
 191
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Quarryman Penny Lane
 194
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Octopus Garden in the Shade Octopus Garden
 133
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Penny Lane Penny Lane
 316
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wonderland Pixie Corner
 96
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Flying Circus Neat and Cool
 261
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neat and Cool Neat and Cool
 194
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Zip Zip
 103
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Smoke Bluff Connection Wall Area
 100
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Split Beaver Split Beaver
 80
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Popeye and the Raven Penny Lane
 126
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Partners In Crime Penny Lane
 90
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crime of the Century Penny Lane
 163
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Smoke Bluffs »

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Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.

There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now. May 10, 2009

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