Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Barley, Turley 1982
Page Views: 3,047 total · 21/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

64 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


Lots of action here. Start with an undercling traverse left (~5.9). Then up a pretty easy left facing corner until you can traverse right to a series of bolts which diagonal up and right. Face climb past the bolts (10-) with a long clip at the 3rd or 4th. After the bolts, follow a crack until it seems easier to move right to a parallel crack; switching cracks is the crux. Follow this crack to the top where you can either traverse right to a set of anchors or belay from a power tower support cable. At the start be conscious of future rope drag when placing your gear.

A 70M rope is required to lower from the fixed anchors, but I believe one can rap from here w/ a 60M, though I not sure so tie your rope ends together and use your own judgement.


The left most climb on the west facing portion of Boulder Gully. Start below the right end of a small arch.


Standard Squamish rack, small nuts to hand size cams. Some long slings and/or double ropes.


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Awesome, well protected climb with a super short approach. The upper cracks protects perfectly. To avoid rope drag, use long slings on the pieces at the undercling, and if you must place a piece on the left side (after completing the undercling) - use a double length sling. That's what I did and the rope drag was manageable. I didn't notice any hard parts on the twin cracks up top, and thought the crux was the bolted portion. Gear to #2 camalot (I placed two of them). I placed two #1 camalots. (one to protect the second on the final move). Aug 19, 2007
This climb is the most fun you can legally have while (basically) in a public parking lot. Backclean your gear out of the small left-facing corner or use double ropes. Sep 17, 2008
Hans Bauck
Squamish, BC
Hans Bauck   Squamish, BC
One of the bolts is really hard to reach if you're short like me. Jan 23, 2010
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
The first three bolts on this route need to be replaced, FYI. Jul 21, 2010
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
Using double ropes is really helpful for this one. Jan 23, 2011
Kenn Sippell
Vancouver, British Columbia
Kenn Sippell   Vancouver, British Columbia
Recently re-bolted. I think there is one new one. Sep 4, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Really really nice route. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it!

The start is a pain as you pretty much have to back clean aggressively or really extend your pieces to avoid heinous rope drag. The start is fun and a touch exciting. The face climbing has cool, well protected movement and the crack and slab are just fun.

Get on it!

Also, yes, you can rap with a 60. Probably can't lower, though. Jun 3, 2013
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
Definitely back clean if you can, or better yet, dont place any gear at the start until you are up at the bolts otherwise... crazy rope drag! Jul 25, 2013
Priti Wright
Seattle, WA
Priti Wright   Seattle, WA
It proudly provide climbers with the best products on the shelves: varied and sustained high-quality movement and affordable approach time. Climbers’ combined expertise in cracks, slab, face climbing and boldness provides them with a strong platform for sustainable success on this route.

Consumer Security Advisory **UPDATE**
The first flake will stick ropes, and the belayer may have to clean any pieces place on the undercling traverse for the climber to be able to move off the ledge. Jul 5, 2015