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Routes in Boulder Gully

Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Toosh V1 5
Kitchen Confidential V0 4
Lean on Me V2 5+
Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nose, The V2 5+
Olive Oyl V0 4
Picket Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Refrigerator V1 5
Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tea Cup V2 5+
Tick-tack-toe V0 4
Triage Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
True Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
TurboCharger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wing Night V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Barley, Turley 1982
Page Views: 2,600 total, 21/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

Lots of action here. Start with an undercling traverse left (~5.9). Then up a pretty easy left facing corner until you can traverse right to a series of bolts which diagonal up and right. Face climb past the bolts (10-) with a long clip at the 3rd or 4th. After the bolts, follow a crack until it seems easier to move right to a parallel crack; switching cracks is the crux. Follow this crack to the top where you can either traverse right to a set of anchors or belay from a power tower support cable. At the start be conscious of future rope drag when placing your gear.

A 70M rope is required to lower from the fixed anchors, but I believe one can rap from here w/ a 60M, though I not sure so tie your rope ends together and use your own judgement.

Location

The left most climb on the west facing portion of Boulder Gully. Start below the right end of a small arch.

Protection

Standard Squamish rack, small nuts to hand size cams. Some long slings and/or double ropes.

Photos

Priti Wright
Seattle, Washington
 
Priti Wright   Seattle, Washington
 
It proudly provide climbers with the best products on the shelves: varied and sustained high-quality movement and affordable approach time. ClimbersÂ’ combined expertise in cracks, slab, face climbing and boldness provides them with a strong platform for sustainable success on this route.

Consumer Security Advisory **UPDATE**
The first flake will stick ropes, and the belayer may have to clean any pieces place on the undercling traverse for the climber to be able to move off the ledge. Jul 5, 2015
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
 
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
 
Definitely back clean if you can, or better yet, dont place any gear at the start until you are up at the bolts otherwise... crazy rope drag! Jul 25, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Really really nice route. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it!

The start is a pain as you pretty much have to back clean aggressively or really extend your pieces to avoid heinous rope drag. The start is fun and a touch exciting. The face climbing has cool, well protected movement and the crack and slab are just fun.

Get on it!

Also, yes, you can rap with a 60. Probably can't lower, though. Jun 3, 2013
Kenn Sippell
Vancouver, British Columbia
 
Kenn Sippell   Vancouver, British Columbia
 
Recently re-bolted. I think there is one new one. Sep 4, 2012
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
Using double ropes is really helpful for this one. Jan 23, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
The first three bolts on this route need to be replaced, FYI. Jul 21, 2010
Hans
Squamish, BC
 
Hans   Squamish, BC
 
One of the bolts is really hard to reach if you're short like me. Jan 23, 2010
This climb is the most fun you can legally have while (basically) in a public parking lot. Backclean your gear out of the small left-facing corner or use double ropes. Sep 17, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Awesome, well protected climb with a super short approach. The upper cracks protects perfectly. To avoid rope drag, use long slings on the pieces at the undercling, and if you must place a piece on the left side (after completing the undercling) - use a double length sling. That's what I did and the rope drag was manageable. I didn't notice any hard parts on the twin cracks up top, and thought the crux was the bolted portion. Gear to #2 camalot (I placed two of them). I placed two #1 camalots. (one to protect the second on the final move). Aug 19, 2007