Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Boulder Gully

Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Toosh V1 5
Kitchen Confidential V0 4
Lean on Me V2 5+
Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nose, The V2 5+
Olive Oyl V0 4
Picket Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Refrigerator V1 5
Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tea Cup V2 5+
Tick-tack-toe V0 4
Triage Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
True Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
TurboCharger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wing Night V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: K. McLane, T. Marks, 1984
Page Views: 564 total, 5/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A fun climb, but not very sustained and soft for 5.9. The crux is a very nice tight hands corner crack that is supplemented by some convenient holds on the arete of the left wall. Protection opportunities decrease along with the difficulty.

With a 70m rope you can lower down Supervalue placing some directionals so that climb can be toproped. (Supervalue is so good that while it's a great and well-protected lead, it's worth toproping if you don't feel up to leading it).

Location

In the corner right of the Supervalue buttress.

Protection

Tight hands to hands. You don't need much as the crux is short, and the rest is either solid jams, or very easy, or pinched off so it doesn't accept pro. It's still a reasonably protected climb unless you're maxed out at 5.8.

Photos

Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
I definitely didn't think it was soft for 5.9. I guess maybe I didn't go straight in the crack. very nice, but I thought the crux was good and plenty 5.9. Jun 15, 2017
Mat Brunton
  5.9
Mat Brunton  
  5.9
Fun, long route. Crux seemed to be the vertical and slightly diagonal crack about midway up once you emerge from the lower corner. Spacey pro for a short section with easier climbing up high on the route. Jul 12, 2015
Dru
Dru  
It's a totally separate climb, 5.7 May 13, 2015
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
Any info on the clean corner above this line mentioned by Geoff? Does it also go at 5.9? Can it be linked with the pitch below or does it need to be pitched out? May 6, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9-
Looks like this corner is now twice the climb it was. Oct 22, 2013