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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Boulder Gully
Lust
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 53
votes
Routes in Boulder Gully
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Be Here Now T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blowzebella T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fun Toosh V1 5 |
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Hot Wax T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kitchen Confidential V0 4 |
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Le Carrots son Quite V2 5+ |
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Lean on Me V2 5+ |
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Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lust T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nose, The V2 5+ |
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Olive Oyl V0 4 |
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Picket Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Refrigerator V1 5 |
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Snake Taint V8 7B |
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Super Baked T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tea Cup V1 5 |
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Tick-tack-toe V0 4 |
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Triage Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Love S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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TurboCharger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wing Night V0 4 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 49.7098, -123.1406 |
| FA: | N. Jones, T. Holwill, B. Noble, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 940 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Good climbing, but not terribly aesthetic. There are several ways to do this climb, all about 5.10 or 5.10+ The crux is at least above the 4th bolt no matter which is chosen.
Climb past 4 bolts on chunky but solid rock to reach a set of thin cracks, seams, and pods on the left (steep) or to pull around right and continue up a slab with two bolts and a crack... Both options feel like 5.10-something and the right side is probably the better protected- and sunnier.
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