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Routes in Boulder Gully

Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Toosh V1 5
Kitchen Confidential V0 4
Lean on Me V2 5+
Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nose, The V2 5+
Olive Oyl V0 4
Picket Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Refrigerator V1 5
Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tea Cup V2 5+
Tick-tack-toe V0 4
Triage Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
True Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
TurboCharger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wing Night V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: J. Campbell, A. Hughes, 1980
Page Views: 996 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 29, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

The climb is a little less clean and less obvious for pro at the bottom where the climbing is easy, but offers more locks and clings up top than almost any other crack I've done, foot for foot. A great climb to learn finger crack technique and protection on, with great stances to get rest or gear placements.

Location

Perhaps 15 meters right of the popular 'Supervalue' crack there is a short low angle arete (Triage Arete) and then a northwest face that stays shaded until about 4PM. The left margin of this starts as a corner and turns into a good fingercrack with locks edges and rests. A very good climb overall.

Protection

A rack of small cams to 2" and a set or two of stoppers and 10 draws or slings gets you to a bolt and chain anchor.

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Great fun, I was impressed. Fingerlocks all the whole way up, but barely any foot/toe jamming because of all the little edges. Make sure to spread out your finger-sized pro, 'cause the crack's at roughly the same width for over ten meters in the middle. Jul 16, 2010