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> Boulder Gully
Cold Comfort
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 131
votes
Routes in Boulder Gully
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Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fun Toosh V1 5 |
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Hot Wax T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kitchen Confidential V0 4 |
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Le Carrots son Quite V2 5+ |
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Lean on Me V2 5+ |
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Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nose, The V2 5+ |
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Olive Oyl V0 4 |
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Picket Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Refrigerator V1 5 |
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Super Baked T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tea Cup V1 5 |
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Tick-tack-toe V0 4 |
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Triage Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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TurboCharger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wing Night V0 4 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | J. Campbell, A. Hughes, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 2,595 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The climb is a little less clean and less obvious for pro at the bottom where the climbing is easy, but offers more locks and clings up top than almost any other crack I've done, foot for foot. A great climb to learn finger crack technique and protection on, with great stances to get rest or gear placements.
Location
Perhaps 15 meters right of the popular 'Supervalue' crack there is a short low angle arete (Triage Arete) and then a northwest face that stays shaded until about 4PM. The left margin of this starts as a corner and turns into a good fingercrack with locks edges and rests. A very good climb overall.
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