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Routes in Boulder Gully

Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Toosh V1 5
Kitchen Confidential V0 4
Lean on Me V2 5+
Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nose, The V2 5+
Olive Oyl V0 4
Picket Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Refrigerator V1 5
Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tea Cup V2 5+
Tick-tack-toe V0 4
Triage Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
True Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
TurboCharger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wing Night V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kevin McLane, John Howe, Chris Murrell. As a sport route: Kevin McLane, Barry McLane
Page Views: 811 total, 7/month
Shared By: Crack Addict on Aug 21, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A nice technical climb up the arete with good rests between bolts. The bolts are spaced about 15 ft apart and may feel a bit runout for some climbers.

Location

The route climbs an obvious arete between Picket Line and Cold Comfort.
Rap from the chains with a 50m rope.

Protection

4 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains at the top.

Photos

S. Saunders  
 
This one definitely felt a tad spicy. My wife was belaying me (she doesn't climb), and said that SHE had a case of Sewing Machine Leg just watching me.

I agree with an earlier comment that a fall on the 2nd(?) bolt would likely load the carabiner in a way that could cause failure.

All that said, I personally found the moves fun and the climb quite engaging. Sep 12, 2017
Troy Tadlock
Arvada, CO
Troy Tadlock   Arvada, CO
Gear Beta:

4 quickdraws

Optional:

Belayer (if lowering).
Purple Tourniquet and Grey C-Collar (if falling).

Haha was a fun route just don't fall. Aug 3, 2017
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
I agree, it's a bit runout, it kept it really nice and exciting for me. Definitely didn't want to fall. My friend told me it was runout so I was a bit ready for the adventure. Cool moves though, had to do a lot of searching around. Jun 15, 2017
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9 R
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9 R
Those bolts sure looked closer together from the ground. Watch yourself between the third and fourth bolt - ledge-fall potential. Jul 21, 2016
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
 
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
 
While I agree with SethG that the climbing felt about 5.8 (decent holds, low angle, no strenuous moves), I also wouldn't recommend it if the grade is near the leader's limit. I felt the moves from the final bolt to the anchor were needlessly runout even before the climbing eases (although the final challenging move may be height-related, not sure). I did find this neat little arete fun so the odd bolting is a shame. Jun 23, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I promise I am not being snarky by saying that this is a nice route. I still consider it 5.9. and I am generally a wimp with run-outs, seemed ok. Jul 18, 2014
SethG  
If this were more closely bolted it would be considered a favorite 5.8. There are good holds all the way up. Jun 3, 2013
Adrian Lazar  
 
A bit runout between the last two bolts, but not too bad. Hand holds are great. IMO it deserves it's grading. Jun 22, 2012
Jon Stein
North Vancouver, BC
  5.10a R
Jon Stein   North Vancouver, BC
  5.10a R
So this is a super exciting arete climb that felt a bit run out and surly will keep you on your toes and in full focus. Squamish Select Rates this as a 5.9 but I felt it more of the 10a and a bit run out feely. Sep 5, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a R
This route should be avoided, especially as the second bolt is placed such that I'm not entirely sure the carabiner would survive a fall because it would be loaded over an edge and of course this bolt protects the crux.

The route is also missing a bolt up high- there should be 5 bolts, although to call it a sport route, there should probably be 7.

Poorly bolted, contrived climbing, and dangerous fall potential are all reasons to avoid this one. Someone really should move the second bolt about a foot to the right and replace the missing bolt up high. Jul 17, 2010