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Routes in Boulder Gully

Cold Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Toosh V1 5
Kitchen Confidential V0 4
Lean on Me V2 5+
Loose Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nose, The V2 5+
Olive Oyl V0 4
Picket Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Refrigerator V1 5
Supervalue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Holds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tea Cup V2 5+
Tick-tack-toe V0 4
Triage Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
True Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
TurboCharger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wing Night V0 4
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kevin McLane, John Howe, Chris Murrell. As a sport route: Kevin McLane, Barry McLane
Page Views: 892 total · 8/month
Shared By: Crack Addict on Aug 21, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Edit]

A nice technical climb up the arete with good rests between bolts. The bolts are spaced about 15 ft apart and may feel a bit runout for some climbers.

Location [Edit]

The route climbs an obvious arete between Picket Line and Cold Comfort.
Rap from the chains with a 50m rope.

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains at the top.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a R
This route should be avoided, especially as the second bolt is placed such that I'm not entirely sure the carabiner would survive a fall because it would be loaded over an edge and of course this bolt protects the crux.

The route is also missing a bolt up high- there should be 5 bolts, although to call it a sport route, there should probably be 7.

Poorly bolted, contrived climbing, and dangerous fall potential are all reasons to avoid this one. Someone really should move the second bolt about a foot to the right and replace the missing bolt up high. Jul 17, 2010
Jon Stein
North Vancouver, BC
  5.10a R
Jon Stein   North Vancouver, BC
  5.10a R
So this is a super exciting arete climb that felt a bit run out and surly will keep you on your toes and in full focus. Squamish Select Rates this as a 5.9 but I felt it more of the 10a and a bit run out feely. Sep 5, 2010
Adrian Lazar  
 
A bit runout between the last two bolts, but not too bad. Hand holds are great. IMO it deserves it's grading. Jun 22, 2012
SethG  
If this were more closely bolted it would be considered a favorite 5.8. There are good holds all the way up. Jun 3, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I promise I am not being snarky by saying that this is a nice route. I still consider it 5.9. and I am generally a wimp with run-outs, seemed ok. Jul 18, 2014
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
 
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
 
While I agree with SethG that the climbing felt about 5.8 (decent holds, low angle, no strenuous moves), I also wouldn't recommend it if the grade is near the leader's limit. I felt the moves from the final bolt to the anchor were needlessly runout even before the climbing eases (although the final challenging move may be height-related, not sure). I did find this neat little arete fun so the odd bolting is a shame. Jun 23, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9 R
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9 R
Those bolts sure looked closer together from the ground. Watch yourself between the third and fourth bolt - ledge-fall potential. Jul 21, 2016
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
I agree, it's a bit runout, it kept it really nice and exciting for me. Definitely didn't want to fall. My friend told me it was runout so I was a bit ready for the adventure. Cool moves though, had to do a lot of searching around. Jun 15, 2017
Troy Tadlock
Arvada, CO
Troy Tadlock   Arvada, CO
Gear Beta:

4 quickdraws

Optional:

Belayer (if lowering).
Purple Tourniquet and Grey C-Collar (if falling).

Haha was a fun route just don't fall. Aug 3, 2017
S. Saunders  
 
This one definitely felt a tad spicy. My wife was belaying me (she doesn't climb), and said that SHE had a case of Sewing Machine Leg just watching me.

I agree with an earlier comment that a fall on the 2nd(?) bolt would likely load the carabiner in a way that could cause failure.

All that said, I personally found the moves fun and the climb quite engaging. Sep 12, 2017

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