All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > Split Beaver
Avg: 3.4 from 76 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975|
|Page Views:||5,194 total, 40/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
DescriptionPull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.
Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.
Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.
Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address