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Routes in Split Beaver

Asleep At The Wheel T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Heavenly Ladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orifice Fish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poorly Groomed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Salal Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Split Beaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975
Page Views: 5,226 total, 40/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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76 Opinions

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.

Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.

Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.

Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address

Location

Once you're at the crag, there is no mistaking which climb is Split Beaver.

Protection

This crack will take one or two every size of cam from .75" to 5" but it's not so long that doubles are warranted. You can gauge it from the bottom. Bolted rap anchor.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.10
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.10
A number 5 and two 4's, seriously? I lead this climbing with 2 3's and 1 four, and I was on toprope for the last 15 feet by bumping a textbook #4 that was about a half meter deep in the crack. Sep 15, 2015
Mark van Eijk
  5.10
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10
One of the top lines in the bluffs. Splitter, steep, and extremely aesthetic. There is only a short section of true off-width, most will be able to get good hands and fists until the large horizontal break 2/3s of the way up the route. After this the crack widens to a legitimately hard size, too big for fists, too small for knees. The difficulties are compounded by the flaring nature of the crack at this point. Fortunately it's just an 8 foot grovel to a no-hands rest ledge and then a fun top-out on solid stacks and knees.

I didn't protect the initial boulder problem and I am not at all bold, the only hard moves here are 4 feet off the ground. Matt's gear suggestion is spot-on. There are a couple of chockstones wedged in the lower half. Yank away, they're going nowhere.

This route dries fast (except the often-seeping first move) and gets pleasant, filtered afternoon sun. Perfect for every day. Apr 15, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
  5.10d
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
  5.10d
The crux is hard Jul 3, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Super fun battle. My rack: green c3 for the boulder move, #1, #0.75, 2x#2, #3, #3.5, 2x#4, 1x#5. Sews it up.. though I did slide the #5 up for the last move. Aug 16, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
A 4.5 Camalot works very well for the top section. Probably better than a #5, but I can't say as I didn't use one. Aug 11, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10b
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10b
Managed this one after falling near the top on my first try. Great route with plenty of spots to rest and only a short section larger than fists to throw you off. Great for working on your fist jams and hand stacks.

Perfect rack to sew it up in camalots = 1x 0.75 (green) (for the first section after the boulder start), 1x 2 (yellow), 2x 3 (blue), 2x 4 (grey), 1x 5 (purple) Sep 10, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
vimeo.com/28580878 Jul 27, 2012