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Routes in Split Beaver

Asleep At The Wheel T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Heavenly Ladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orifice Fish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poorly Groomed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Salal Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Split Beaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: R. Barley, P. Shackleton, 1981
Page Views: 1,163 total · 9/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


This is your warm-up for Split Beaver since the "other" climb here, Heavenly Ladder, isn't as physical.

There's no confusion about where to go, just head up the crack and be prepared for some contorted jamming despite the seemingly obvious nature of the crack.


The is the obvious crack left of Split Beaver.


A standard rack will be entirely sufficient. Bolts at the top.


manuel rangel
manuel rangel   Arizona
save a couple purple camalots for the finish! Aug 15, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
I think this thing is four stars! Can't believe I hadn't been on it before. I was able to get a #1 an #0.75 camalot up top in addition to a nut... but yes, #0.5 camalots would work too. Aug 14, 2012
Ed kelly
Ed kelly  
Really fun and varied. Feels hard after you've gotten used to the slabby cracks of the smoke bluffs. It's pretty cool to get both finger locks and knee bars on the same climb. If you climb the first 2/3rds you can set a top rope to your right on split beaver if you don't have the gear or courage for that one. Apr 8, 2015
Mark van Eijk
Mark van Eijk  
Steep and varied. Takes a large variety of gear up to a #4 c4 (a #5 will fit but is not needed). Save some finger to off-finger sized pieces for the finish. This route is a rope-eater and a little foresight goes a long way when lowering. Quality! Jun 8, 2015

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