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Routes in Split Beaver

Asleep At The Wheel T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Heavenly Ladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orifice Fish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poorly Groomed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Salal Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Split Beaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: D Jones, K Neubauer, 3/89
Page Views: 281 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details


This climb has been cleaned fairly recently and stays fairly dry even when other things are seeping. The climbing is mostly moderate and the protection fairly straight forward. Be mindful however, of the rope length when lowering with a line shorter than 70m.


This route starts near the low point of the Split Beaver formation, down at it's lower right end. The climb follows the crack system that ascends left of the blunt arete on a left-leaning crack system.


A double set of cams and nuts and a some long slings will get you to a bolt and chain anchor that can be lowered off of with a 70M rope.


Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
Do it all in one pitch. We lowered to the ground with a 60m and it was close but required no downclimbing. May 9, 2016
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
awkward but fun and rewarding Jul 3, 2014
Mark van Eijk
Mark van Eijk  
Long route, best to bring a 70m, you can do it in two raps with a shorter rope by using the intermediate anchor. First half was not that pleasant, rather shallow and flaring. After the ledge it is good fun; solid jamming in a variety of sizes. I'd strongly recommend linking salal jam into the second half for a higher-quality experience. Jan 22, 2014