PRINT: Rock Climb Split Beaver, Squamish

Split Beaver

5.10b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 185 votes
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Split Beaver

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.

Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.

Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.

Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address

Location

Once you're at the crag, there is no mistaking which climb is Split Beaver.

Protection

This crack will take one or two every size of cam from .75" to 5" but it's not so long that doubles are warranted. You can gauge it from the bottom. Bolted rap anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Many good fists to be had if you reach for them

Michele from Canmore on Split Beaver near the top.

Not too many people can finish Split Beaver on fist jams alone. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

A few butterflies help through the crux

Wide boyz

Just before the crux

Edouard just before the exit bulge.

Aaron on Split Beaver

Split Beaver is a beautiful climb

Can't miss it! It's the big gaping off width right as you walk up to the wall. Happy Climbing!

Right at the crux, this climb wants to spit you out.

harder than it looks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

vimeo.com/28580878 Jul 27, 2012

Matt Hoffmann
Squamish

5.10b

Managed this one after falling near the top on my first try. Great route with plenty of spots to rest and only a short section larger than fists to throw you off. Great for working on your fist jams and hand stacks.

Perfect rack to sew it up in camalots = 1x 0.75 (green) (for the first section after the boulder start), 1x 2 (yellow), 2x 3 (blue), 2x 4 (grey), 1x 5 (purple) Sep 10, 2012

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT

A 4.5 Camalot works very well for the top section. Probably better than a #5, but I can't say as I didn't use one. Aug 11, 2013

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

Super fun battle. My rack: green c3 for the boulder move, #1, #0.75, 2x#2, #3, #3.5, 2x#4, 1x#5. Sews it up.. though I did slide the #5 up for the last move. Aug 16, 2013

Mark van Eijk

5.10

One of the top lines in the bluffs. Splitter, steep, and extremely aesthetic. There is only a short section of true off-width, most will be able to get good hands and fists until the large horizontal break 2/3s of the way up the route. After this the crack widens to a legitimately hard size, too big for fists, too small for knees. The difficulties are compounded by the flaring nature of the crack at this point. Fortunately it's just an 8 foot grovel to a no-hands rest ledge and then a fun top-out on solid stacks and knees.

I didn't protect the initial boulder problem and I am not at all bold, the only hard moves here are 4 feet off the ground. Matt's gear suggestion is spot-on. There are a couple of chockstones wedged in the lower half. Yank away, they're going nowhere.

This route dries fast (except the often-seeping first move) and gets pleasant, filtered afternoon sun. Perfect for every day. Apr 15, 2015

Where's Walden

5.10

I lead this climbing with 2 x #3 and 1 x #4 and it was fine. Sep 15, 2015

Dave R
Squamish, B.C.

Split Beaver is a classic must do. Easy to TR too. May 1, 2022

Connor Dobson
Louisville, CO

you can place a .3 to protect the first move but probably more effort than it is worth. This is mostly easy hands and the wide section is lower angle and has ample feet to make it pretty moderate. This would be 5.8/9 in the valley and is very friendly and safe. If you bring the rack proposed above you will be set! Jun 1, 2022

Uknown Unknown
Vancouver, BC

#5 got stuck when I did it. I placed the #5 right in the middle where it widens up for a second. I tried to bump it and just got tighter and tighter near the full parralel section at the top. I think the #5 is only meant for the exit. You can push a #4 quite high and quite safely, though a TAD bit tips out, but I would do that next time instead of a #5. If you place the #5 and it's overcammed, then it means you've placed it a bit too early, take it out and do not continue bumping. Replace with a 4 Aug 28, 2022

Zachary Watson
Squamish, BC

Split Beaver is a blast! Jul 26, 2024