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Fern Gully Rock Climbing
Routes in Fern Gully
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Christa's Revenge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dog-Legging T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fern Gully T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rampage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tools of Moss Destruction S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Elevation: | 503 ft | 153 m |
| GPS: |
49.70564, -123.13672 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 7,192 total · 33/month | |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on May 18, 2007 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A pleasant little crag with four nice moderate routes and a steep bolted face climb. Very close to Ronin's Corner.
Bring a standard rack for the moderate cracks here, possibly doubles of 1" and 2" pieces.
Bring a standard rack for the moderate cracks here, possibly doubles of 1" and 2" pieces.
Getting There
This crag is above Penny Lane, and there are a couple of ways to get there:
From Penny Lane: go up the East Gully at the far right-hand side of Penny Lane. There is a cool fallen tree that has been turned into a staircase about halfway up the gully. Above the gully the trail splits. If you go right, you will get to Ronin's Corner. Continue up left to Fern Gully.
From the Loop Trail, east end: If you take the Valley Trail past the turn off for Penny Lane, and keep going for a bit, you will eventually get to the second turn for the Loop Trail. Take this up, past new staircases. When you can turn left at a rock (Ronin's Corner), do so. Follow this left to the top of the East Gully of Penny Lane, and then continue up.
Total approach time from the parking lot ~15 minutes.
From Penny Lane: go up the East Gully at the far right-hand side of Penny Lane. There is a cool fallen tree that has been turned into a staircase about halfway up the gully. Above the gully the trail splits. If you go right, you will get to Ronin's Corner. Continue up left to Fern Gully.
From the Loop Trail, east end: If you take the Valley Trail past the turn off for Penny Lane, and keep going for a bit, you will eventually get to the second turn for the Loop Trail. Take this up, past new staircases. When you can turn left at a rock (Ronin's Corner), do so. Follow this left to the top of the East Gully of Penny Lane, and then continue up.
Total approach time from the parking lot ~15 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Gully
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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