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Routes in Penny Lane

Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Penny Lane is probably the most popular and sunniest of all the Smoke Bluff crags. It over looks the beautiful Hospital Hill residential area.

Most routs are easier to rappel but walking off is an option.

Getting There

You can either walk up from the designated parking area or access from the Loop trail/Pixie Corner trail at the west end of the cliff by climbing and easy gully. At the east end you can climb an easy canyon-like gully which links Penny Lane to Fern Gully and Ronins Corner.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Penny Lane

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 227
Quarryman
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 367
Penny Lane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
Up, Up and Away
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 86
Clandestine Affair
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
The Witch Doctor's Apprentice
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders)
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Health Hazard
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 156
Popeye and the Raven
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 92
Climb & Punishment
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 107
Partners In Crime
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Power Windows
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Werewolves of London
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 73
Yorkshire Gripper
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 194
Crime of the Century
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Sunny Days in December
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Quarryman
 227
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Penny Lane
 367
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Up, Up and Away
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Clandestine Affair
 86
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Witch Doctor's Apprentice
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ugly American (aka Ugly And…
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Health Hazard
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Popeye and the Raven
 156
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Climb & Punishment
 92
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Partners In Crime
 107
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Power Windows
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Werewolves of London
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Yorkshire Gripper
 73
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Crime of the Century
 194
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Sunny Days in December
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Penny Lane »

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Photos

Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
Best crag in the world? Sep 9, 2018

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