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Routes in Octopus Garden

Call Any Vegetable T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edible Panties T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Ball T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Fist Full of Yoghurt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Harry's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leonissisation S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Coefficient T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Octopus Garden in the Shade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipe Dream T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Root Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unearthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

A wonderful moderate climbing area, mostly 5.8 and 5.9. If you're coming up here to lead these (and they are nice), you might consider bringing a set of hexes and/or some larger cams (up to about #4 Camalot). Many of the climbs can be led on a standard rack, but two or three are w i d e.

Because of the ease of top-roping (most climbs have rappel anchors), this place can be crowded on weekends. Also a bit "buggy."
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Getting There

Follow the trail past Neat and Cool, and turn off at the next main junction (signs). Follow up and up, past stairs and several switchbacks, until the Loop Trail crests, and then descends more stairs. Then you are almost there. The trail will lead directly to the wall, and you cannot possibly miss it when you are there. ~20 minutes.

If you need to get up to (or down from) the top of the cliff, there is a trail that ascends a root-filled gully on the left side past Harry's Crack, 5.8.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Octopus Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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