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Pixie Corner Rock Climbing
Routes in Pixie Corner
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Captain Hornblower S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cheshire Cat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Davy Jones' Locker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Diddly Squat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Digital Dexterity S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Joe's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Feat T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pixie Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stink Foot T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sweet Foot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trixie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turley's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weiner in the Bun T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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White Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 391 ft | 119 m |
| GPS: |
49.7067, -123.1398 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 26,229 total · 121/month | |
| Shared By: | Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Pixie Corner sits in the trees above the Neat and Cool cliffs, and is a perfect place to bring beginners or a small group of friends. The area hosts a dozen or so one pitch routes, ranging from classic Squamish 5.7 to 5.9 cracks to the one of the sickest, thinnest lines in Squamish (Digital Dexterity, 12c).
The main attractions are Wonderland (.9), the Locker (.7), and Pixie Corner (.8). The last two make great beginner leads or TR's, as you can easily walk to the top of the cliff and set anchors and ropes, and/or walk off.
The main attractions are Wonderland (.9), the Locker (.7), and Pixie Corner (.8). The last two make great beginner leads or TR's, as you can easily walk to the top of the cliff and set anchors and ropes, and/or walk off.
Getting There
Take the gravel road past Neat and Cool, then cut left up an obvious (and signed) trail towards Octopus' Garden. Before the two flights of stairs up a small gully, go left. Pixie Corner is the massive double dihedral area, and Wonderland is all the way to the left, at the end of a slightly exposed ledge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Pixie Corner
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (9)
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