Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight - 1980
Page Views: 499 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jon Stein on Sep 3, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

I found the Crux to be near the top portion of the arete feature with some tricky moves to work through. Really nice climb and well worth doing again. Would make for a really scary and dangerous lead as it only has 2 bolts protecting the whole 60ft. climb.

Location

This climb is found on the arete between Captain Hornblower 5.11a and Diddly Squat 5.12b which climbs the blank face just right of Weiner in the Bun. You can walk off or be lowered or rap off if you want. most people walk off right to the stair case leading back down to pixie corner crag.

Protection

Only two bolts protect the entire route. May be areas to place removable protection but take a good look before leading it. I say it simply needs more bolts to make it safe. Two bolts at the top for your anchor

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