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Routes in Pixie Corner

Captain Hornblower S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diddly Squat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Dexterity S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Joe's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pixie Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Trixie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turley's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weiner in the Bun T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,485 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Don't be fooled by Pixie Corner's chill routes, because Joe's is pretty stout for a 5.9. It can be tricky to place gear in the left to right angling crack, and the top out is very committing.

Joe's feels harder, or at least more awkward, than Penny Lane.

Location

Joe's Crack is on the right facing wall of the farthest-left dihedral in Pixie Corner. It angles from left to right, then goes straight up into the trees. You can't miss it.
Walk up and right to top of cliff, and follow path to stairs and the base of the dihedrals.

Protection

Cams to 2 inches. No fixed gear, but there is a big strong fir at the top of the climb, so bring a cordalette or long runners to reach the tree and keep your rope off the rock if top roping.
hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
sweet sloping bouldery mantle up top ohh ya Aug 26, 2008
Ben2
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Ben2   Bend, OR
  5.9+
I too thought the route was a bit difficult for the grade but still VERY fun. I messed up on the finish and instead ran it out to connect it with "The Locker" finish. Adds some length to the climb, minimal rope drag, and you get bolts to TR from. Aug 29, 2008
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
This turned out to climb more awkard than it looked. Aug 6, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
The topout gives the route its grade, I think. Honest 5.9. The crack was straight-forward with lots of rests.

Also, there are bolts at the top now with quicklinks attached. Apr 1, 2013

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