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Routes in Pixie Corner

Captain Hornblower S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diddly Squat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Dexterity S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Joe's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pixie Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Trixie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turley's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weiner in the Bun T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Don Serl, Dave Jones, 1982
Page Views: 1,063 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

The crux is getting on this very popular, very easy route. It takes pretty good gear, though, and it's easy to walk up and set up a TR, so it's worthwhile to bring beginners or first-time leaders here.

Location

The Locker is in the back of the left-most dihedral, just to the right of Joes Crack.

Protection

Cams, nuts, or hexes to 2 inches. Bolts at the top, no chains. Walk off the back towards the stairs and around to the base.

Photos

Not recommended for first-time leaders, the first few moves are well-traveled and very slick. While this is an easy climb, especially for those comfortable with a bit of finger technique and stemming, the initial rests are poor and this could lead to poorly-considered placements. Much better to start on pixie corner or cat crack as they protect better, offer more frequent and comfortable rests, and have much better movement at a moderate grade! Sep 2, 2011