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> Pixie Corner
Cheshire Cat
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Pixie Corner
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Captain Hornblower S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cheshire Cat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Davy Jones' Locker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Diddly Squat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Digital Dexterity S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Joe's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Feat T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pixie Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stink Foot T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sweet Foot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trixie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turley's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weiner in the Bun T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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White Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 49.7067, -123.1398 |
| FA: | Craig McGee, circa 2006 |
| Page Views: | 478 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Moorhead on Mar 27, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This worthwhile route has languished in obscurity having been climbed but not named and then treated as an italicized footnote in Squamish Rockclimbs. Definitely a proud line by Smoke Bluffs standards I have taken the liberty of naming it in the hopes of bringing it into the light.
Starts on the classic Wonderland and then quickly break right up a finger crack that dissipates into tech crystal crimping. A couple of sloping chickenheads offer brief reprieve between cruxes. Exhilarating final moves with good exposure!
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