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Routes in Pixie Corner

Captain Hornblower S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diddly Squat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Dexterity S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Joe's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pixie Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Trixie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turley's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weiner in the Bun T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Don Serl, Dave Jones, 1982
Page Views: 121 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Feb 24, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

An unfortunately typical Smoke Bluffs bolted slab. The holds are excruciatingly small and polished. This climb feels really hard for the grade, even admitting that a slab 11a should have very small holds. It's likely that the edges have lost a bit of their bite over time, as appears to have happened on a number of Smoke Bluffs slabs (Dreams of Passion at Ronin's Corner and especially Tools of Moss Destruction at Fern Gully).

Nevertheless, all of the moves are doable and a top-rope session can serve as an early-season tune-up for your slab technique.

Location

This is face just right of Davey Jones' Locker.

Protection

There are two bolts before the first ledge, one before the next ledge and then one more on the finishing arete of Diddly Squat. There is a two-bolt anchor shared with Diddly Squat at the top.

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