Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: R. Barley, P. Shakleton, C. Murrell
Page Views: 4,930 total · 37/month
Shared By: ScottH on May 30, 2008 with improvements by Tom Gnyra
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


120 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is a wild and exposed line that traverses above the height of the wall area. Begin on a ledge left of the Jabberwocky anchor, and hand traverse a finger/hand crack up and left across the void. Pull up onto a bulge and move left through stellar moves on a series of flakes. Traverse around the corner as the crack widens, then climb a short section of fist crack to the anchor. Savor the view. A unique and highly worthwhile pitch.

Location

Walk left from the Pixie corner area, or arrive at the base while doing the Smoke Bluff Connection.

Protection

Gear to 3-4", primarily finger and hand size pieces. I had two #3 camalots and was pleased to have them near the end of the pitch.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Rad pitch. The feet are WAY slick coming off the belay. Be nice to your second and place gear.

This pitch is a little more heady than your typical Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Good stuff.

The ending is cool, but unless you want to really piss off your second DO NOT PLACE GEAR in the final (easy) vertical 3-4" crack. This allows you to flip the rope over the final crux directly under the belay. Placing gear in the final crack will create MASSIVE rope drag and leave your second open to a horrible fall. And accidents have happened here when people have placed gear and their second fell. For short people, the final crux is pretty tricky as they can't reach the critical feet.

If you don't intend to place gear in the final crack, you only need one #3 camalot at most for the pitch. Aug 19, 2008
EMT
EMT  
one of my favorite pitches at the bluffs! Definitely not your average bluffs 5.9... Oct 7, 2009
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
This pitch is rad. Do it. Save some big gear for the end, and bring a sling or two for rope drag. Excellent though, one of the best lines I did all summer.

Edit: It's recommended avoid protecting the final vertical fist/hand crack if you can summon the boldness. If you manage to do so, you'll prevent a big pendulum if your second has trouble with the traverse. You'll also reduce rope drag! Oct 14, 2009
Mark van Eijk
  5.9+
Mark van Eijk  
  5.9+
Agreed, a total blast and worthy outing. The final traversing moves will probably feel more tenuous for climbers with shorter legs. Saving one or two hand-sized pieces for this section will definitely take some of the sting out for the follower (#3 camalot is ideal but 2 or 4 will work) If you decide to protect the short and easy vertical crack at the end, use generous runners or be prepared for horrific rope drag. Thrilling exposure and outstanding moves at the grade, do it! Sep 2, 2011
The anchors at the top were either removed or I couldn't find them ... It's easy to build a gear or tree anchor. Jul 9, 2012
steverett
San Diego, CA
steverett   San Diego, CA
This is a duplicate of the route page Mark posted; they should be merged or one deleted. Apr 5, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Done. Apr 13, 2016
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
FANTASTIC!!! this route is like a longer/better version of Overhang Bypass at J-Tree Aug 2, 2016
Best pitch of the Bluffs connection and one of the best in the Smoke Bluffs, all the comments on this are true, super exposed, great pro and fun!

Beta alert:
One thing though... I dont think its a 5.9 ( It might be a 5.9 in other places but not by Squamish standards) usually when people start saying full value, hard..its a good indicator but in this case its pretty clear to me. I am a 5.9 climber with adventures in the 5.10x grade. I think its very easy to understate the amount of strenght that takes to do this clean, the holds are there so for stronger climber its easy but for a 5.9 climber?? The first hand rail maybe 5.8ish, then up the small bulge on small but solid flake holds and a solid right feet, then to a right facing flake on your left with no feet whatsoever...that move no way its 5.9 in Squamish, its 5.10a and not an easy one at that! then you keep going up on easier terrain to the second hand rail and as the people mention if you are short a painful hard move as you see the foothold that would save the day but just too far...so hard move on no feet and polished hands (maybe hard 5.9 maybe standard 5.10a) and easy to the end. Completely agree on the previous pro beta for the leader to protect the second, there are plenty of gear placements to make it safe for both parties.

Huge humble-pie for me, first fall in 5.9 or 10a and I wasnt even leading it, and after that a few more falls trying to grab that damn right facing flake then clean to the top, thanks to my partner thoughful pro the falls were inconsecuential and had an absolut blast climbing it! Cannot wait to repeat and get it clean!

MUST DO! Mar 11, 2018
Brennan Enright
Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Brennan Enright   Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Not your typical 5.9! slick feet, big exposure, and even a bit of crawling. Being in the smoke bluffs, I'd throw a + on the grade. May 7, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.9+
Matt Hagny  
  5.9+
Quite spicy because you're never very far above a ledge. You never get high enough to have any margin of error for rope stretch or not placing gear soon enough. Quite an adventure! Save a #3 and a runner for when it goes back vertical at the end. I agree that this is much stouter than most 5.9 gear routes in the area. I dislike grade inflation, but could easily see this one being called 10a. Aug 23, 2018