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Routes in Pixie Corner

Captain Hornblower S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diddly Squat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Dexterity S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Joe's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pixie Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Trixie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turley's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weiner in the Bun T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: R. Barley, P. Shakleton, C. Murrell
Page Views: 4,011 total, 35/month
Shared By: ScottH on May 30, 2008 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This is a wild and exposed line that traverses above the height of the wall area. Begin on a ledge left of the Jabberwocky anchor, and hand traverse a finger/hand crack up and left across the void. Pull up onto a bulge and move left through stellar moves on a series of flakes. Traverse around the corner as the crack widens, then climb a short section of fist crack to the anchor. Savor the view. A unique and highly worthwhile pitch.

Location

Walk left from the Pixie corner area, or arrive at the base while doing the Smoke Bluff Connection.

Protection

Gear to 3-4", primarily finger and hand size pieces. I had two #3 camalots and was pleased to have them near the end of the pitch.

Photos

Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
FANTASTIC!!! this route is like a longer/better version of Overhang Bypass at J-Tree Aug 2, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Done. Apr 13, 2016
steverett
San Diego, CA
steverett   San Diego, CA
This is a duplicate of the route page Mark posted; they should be merged or one deleted. Apr 5, 2016
The anchors at the top were either removed or I couldn't find them ... It's easy to build a gear or tree anchor. Jul 9, 2012
Mark van Eijk
  5.9+
Mark van Eijk  
  5.9+
Agreed, a total blast and worthy outing. The final traversing moves will probably feel more tenuous for climbers with shorter legs. Saving one or two hand-sized pieces for this section will definitely take some of the sting out for the follower (#3 camalot is ideal but 2 or 4 will work) If you decide to protect the short and easy vertical crack at the end, use generous runners or be prepared for horrific rope drag. Thrilling exposure and outstanding moves at the grade, do it! Sep 2, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
This pitch is fucking rad. Do it. Save some big gear for the end, and bring a sling or two for rope drag. Excellent though, one of the best lines I did all summer.

This is the link to the other Wonderland page from the Wall Area mountainproject.com/v/inter… (I guess because it's part of the Smoke Bluff Connection?) Oct 14, 2009
EMT
EMT  
one of my favorite pitches at the bluffs! Definitely not your average bluffs 5.9... Oct 7, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Rad pitch. The feet are WAY slick coming off the belay. Be nice to your second and place gear.

This pitch is a little more heady than your typical Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Good stuff.

The ending is cool, but unless you want to really piss off your second DO NOT PLACE GEAR in the final (easy) vertical 3-4" crack. This allows you to flip the rope over the final crux directly under the belay. Placing gear in the final crack will create MASSIVE rope drag and leave your second open to a horrible fall. And accidents have happened here when people have placed gear and their second fell. For short people, the final crux is pretty tricky as they can't reach the critical feet.

If you don't intend to place gear in the final crack, you only need one #3 camalot at most for the pitch. Aug 19, 2008