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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Peter Croft & Robin Barley, 1981
Page Views: 5,033 total, 38/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Feb 26, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

Yorkshire Gripper climbs the beautiful cracks up the center of a blunt prow left of Popeye and the Raven. Expect fairly solid finger jamming to a well-defined crux where the crack peters out.

Beta alert: I received the excellent advise to dispense with pro through the crux section. Simply load up the crack before the crux and punch through the crux moves without thinking of pro. After the crux, you should get a pretty good stance from which to place gear. The crux is pretty short and the gear before it is very solid.

Protection

SR with extra small TCUs
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Offset nuts and a couple of offset cams are useful on this pitch. So amazing! Loved the climbing! Aug 1, 2016
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11b/c
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11b/c
The middle crux is way harder than the top. The top would be very hard if you rush and get the sequence wrong though. Great pitch. I am 5'9 or 175 cm and this felt as hard for me as crime of the century. Onsighted both, suck it. Aug 16, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA: Peter Croft, Robin Barley, 1981 Feb 12, 2015
AJV
 
AJV  
 
The redpoint on this one took me a few tries. I usually start to get tired of climbs that I have to work on multiple attempts, but this climb is flowy and interesting and I'll continue repeating it. One of my favourites in the bluffs if not Squamish. Sep 19, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
I thought that the sritching-cracks crux was the hardest by far, but still only 11- with long arms. The span was not difficult for me. A shorter climber might find it much harder. Up top was not so bad technically, but could be pretty mental on lead depending on where your gear is placed Jun 4, 2012
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Thanks Clayton. Yes, saying it's left of Crime was a bit of an understatement. I updated it a bit. Fortunately the route sorting feature helps with this sort of thing now. Aug 15, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Edit to the route description/location. This climb is actually a ways left of Crime of the Century (16 routes left of it in the 2001 McLane book). More accurate to describe this route as left of Quarryman. I think the new L->R sorting on this site gets it right. Aug 15, 2011
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
I agree with Lizzy. The direct start over the overhang was pretty easy. The mid-crux between the two cracks while a crux, IMHO it was insignificant compared to the end.

For a rack several BD 0.5 (purples) fit beautifully after the overhang in the direct start, in the lower crack and in the upper crack. I used the suggestion about small TCU's but only placed on and it wasn't really necessary. for me 0.3 (Blue) BD camalot to 0.5 (purple) BD camalot and a yellow one for the direct start Aug 26, 2010
Lizzy Trower
Stanford, CA
Lizzy Trower   Stanford, CA
I actually thought the crux was the very last bit, getting up to the top ledge. Maybe it was just more mental, but I thought it was harder and more committing than the "crux" in the middle of the route. Aug 7, 2009
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
I second backing up your last piece of gear in the crack. I took a big fall on this one and landed about a foot above the ledge on the route. Yikes!!! Jun 15, 2008