All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > Penny Lane
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|FA:||P. Croft, D. Fulton, P. Kindree, 1990|
|Page Views:||169 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Aug 29, 2009|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
DescriptionFirst things first, both the McLane and Bourdon books give this 11a, so that's what I entered, but I don't see how it can be. After bailing, my partner and I set up a TR and got a little further on moves that that felt closer to 12a, and then still couldn't finish it.
The first two thirds of the climb does have feel like 11a and has some very fun, tricky climbing in a curving crack. The final section, protected by three bolts (not the two listed in the books) and seems to have mandatory 5.12 climbing just to clip them. Fortunately, it's possible to climb Health Hazard to the same anchor and TR, or just recover your gear.
LocationOn the left side of Penny Lane, about 20 feet right of the Quarryman area. A crack curves up and left with a piton and leads to blank face where three bolts are visible.
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