Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: P. Croft, D. Fulton, P. Kindree, 1990
Page Views: 244 total · 2/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 29, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

First things first, both the McLane and Bourdon books give this 11a, so that's what I entered, but I don't see how it can be. After bailing, my partner and I set up a TR and got a little further on moves that that felt closer to 12a, and then still couldn't finish it.

The first two thirds of the climb does have feel like 11a and has some very fun, tricky climbing in a curving crack. The final section, protected by three bolts (not the two listed in the books) and seems to have mandatory 5.12 climbing just to clip them. Fortunately, it's possible to climb Health Hazard to the same anchor and TR, or just recover your gear.

Location

On the left side of Penny Lane, about 20 feet right of the Quarryman area. A crack curves up and left with a piton and leads to blank face where three bolts are visible.

Protection

Small cams (#1 camalot and smaller) plus three bolts. Shares a two bolt anchor with several routes, including Health Hazard.

Photos

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Dru B.  
Peter, it sounds like you got offroute onto Don't Cross Shorty (12b). Short People continues hard left rather than up past the bolts. Sep 10, 2009
Peter Spindloe
BC
  5.11a
Peter Spindloe   BC
  5.11a
Yes, that's clear to me now. I'll update the description soon, maybe once I go back and finish it properly. Jun 5, 2012