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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: P. Croft, D. Fulton, P. Kindree, 1990
Page Views: 169 total · 2/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 29, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

First things first, both the McLane and Bourdon books give this 11a, so that's what I entered, but I don't see how it can be. After bailing, my partner and I set up a TR and got a little further on moves that that felt closer to 12a, and then still couldn't finish it.

The first two thirds of the climb does have feel like 11a and has some very fun, tricky climbing in a curving crack. The final section, protected by three bolts (not the two listed in the books) and seems to have mandatory 5.12 climbing just to clip them. Fortunately, it's possible to climb Health Hazard to the same anchor and TR, or just recover your gear.

Location

On the left side of Penny Lane, about 20 feet right of the Quarryman area. A crack curves up and left with a piton and leads to blank face where three bolts are visible.

Protection

Small cams (#1 camalot and smaller) plus three bolts. Shares a two bolt anchor with several routes, including Health Hazard.

Photos

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Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
 
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
 
Yes, that's clear to me now. I'll update the description soon, maybe once I go back and finish it properly. Jun 5, 2012
Dru
Dru  
Peter, it sounds like you got offroute onto Don't Cross Shorty (12b). Short People continues hard left rather than up past the bolts. Sep 10, 2009