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Routes in Penny Lane

Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Robin Barley, P. Shackleton 1981
Page Views: 9,473 total · 64/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Quarryman climbs an obvious, large, left-facing corner on the left side of the Penny Lane cliff band. Scramble on top of a large boulder to start. Fun, cruiser climbing leads to the top of the dihedral. Follow a crack up the steep left face out of the dihedral and around the corner to a balancy hand crack which continues up to the anchor. Nice moves and good gear the whole way.

Protection

Gear to 2". A couple of hand-size pieces for the upper crack.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
crazy good! if this climb were in Boulder it would be the best granite crack under 5.11 in the area. Go left around the roof or you will end up in an 10b seam (which is sweet so you should go that way if that's in your ballpark). Aug 1, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Awesome, fun, goodness. bouldery start leads to a fun corner with great, airy exit moves. Balance yourself into the crack and get started up to the chains. Aug 8, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
The direct finish is also somewhat wet at the crux (which flares) if it has been raining and feels about right for 10b in that condition. But it protects well enough to be of small concern. Jun 4, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.8
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.8
Great beginner route with lots of pro but, make sure you place the gear properly. I watched a beginner trad leader take a massive whipper from the very end, have a piece pull and pendulumed into the initial ramp. Sep 26, 2012
Mat Brunton
  5.8
Mat Brunton  
  5.8
Fun climb that is a good intro to Penny Lane. Jul 12, 2015
JSH

JSH    
The top hand crack is getting pretty slick for feet. May 31, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.8
Matt Hagny  
  5.8
Stellar! Sep 3, 2018

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