Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Scott Flavelle, Robin Barley, 1984
Page Views: 594 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeff Wilges on Mar 12, 2018
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

Balance up the left-arching corner crack and sneak in the best final small placements you can before being forced into a delicate rightward move on to the slab above the crack. A few more delicate moves gain access to a significantly tamer left-trending ramp to the first of three bolts through the next wildly perplexing crystal-crimping steep stemming slab sequence. After the third bolt, top the next ramp and follow fairly obvious (5.6-5.7?) movements to the anchors, possibly finding a placement around X4 0.3-0.4 before the anchors. You certainly do not want to fall during the easier movements leading to the anchors, as there is no 4th bolt as indicated in the guide book.

You may find a C3 00 placement in the thin vertical flaring slot above the lower crack side-pull before stepping up to commit to the slab, but by no means is it a good placement. A small offset may prove more useful.

The guide book does not denote a PG13 rating, but it is safe to say that if the vertical slot piece described above pops before you pull to the easy ramp and clip the first bolt, you are likely in ground-fall territory. Further, the route only has 3 bolts, not 4 as indicated in the guide book.

Location

The route starts with a deceptively inviting left-arching small corner crack climber's left of Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies.

Chains at the top encourage a rappel descent.

Protection

BD C4 0.75 and smaller with an emphasis on small C3s and X4s. No need to double above 0.5.

Photos

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