All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > Penny Lane
Jangling Ball Wall
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Scott Flavelle, Robin Barley, 1984|
|Page Views:||32 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Wilges on Mar 12, 2018|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
DescriptionBalance up the left-arching corner crack and sneak in the best final small placements you can before being forced into a delicate rightward move on to the slab above the crack. A few more delicate moves gain access to a significantly tamer left-trending ramp to the first of three bolts through the next wildly perplexing crystal-crimping steep stemming slab sequence. After the third bolt, top the next ramp and follow fairly obvious (5.6-5.7?) movements to the anchors, possibly finding a placement around X4 0.3-0.4 before the anchors. You certainly do not want to fall during the easier movements leading to the anchors, as there is no 4th bolt as indicated in the guide book.
You may find a C3 00 placement in the thin vertical flaring slot above the lower crack side-pull before stepping up to commit to the slab, but by no means is it a good placement. A small offset may work prove more useful.
The guide book does not denote a PG13 rating, but it is safe to say that if the vertical slot piece described above pops before you pull to the easy ramp and clip the first bolt, you are likely in ground-fall territory. Further, the route only has 3 bolts, not 4 as indicated in the guide book.
LocationThe route starts with a deceptively inviting left-arching small corner crack climber's left of Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies.
Chains at the top encourage a rappel descent.
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