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Routes in Penny Lane

Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Scott Flavelle, Robin Barley, 1984
Page Views: 119 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeff Wilges on Mar 12, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Balance up the left-arching corner crack and sneak in the best final small placements you can before being forced into a delicate rightward move on to the slab above the crack. A few more delicate moves gain access to a significantly tamer left-trending ramp to the first of three bolts through the next wildly perplexing crystal-crimping steep stemming slab sequence. After the third bolt, top the next ramp and follow fairly obvious (5.6-5.7?) movements to the anchors, possibly finding a placement around X4 0.3-0.4 before the anchors. You certainly do not want to fall during the easier movements leading to the anchors, as there is no 4th bolt as indicated in the guide book.

You may find a C3 00 placement in the thin vertical flaring slot above the lower crack side-pull before stepping up to commit to the slab, but by no means is it a good placement. A small offset may prove more useful.

The guide book does not denote a PG13 rating, but it is safe to say that if the vertical slot piece described above pops before you pull to the easy ramp and clip the first bolt, you are likely in ground-fall territory. Further, the route only has 3 bolts, not 4 as indicated in the guide book.

Location

The route starts with a deceptively inviting left-arching small corner crack climber's left of Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies.

Chains at the top encourage a rappel descent.

Protection

BD C4 0.75 and smaller with an emphasis on small C3s and X4s. No need to double above 0.5.

Photos

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Joe Petroske
North Bend, WA
 
Joe Petroske   North Bend, WA
 
Use nuts for the start and maybe a small cam (black totem or something comparable, maybe .2 or .3 x4?) for the crack exit May 29, 2018
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11a/b PG13
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.11a/b PG13
A very good yellow totem/0.4 camalot slots into a perfect placement protects the Crack exit. Gotta look for it. Aug 19, 2018

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