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Routes in Penny Lane

Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,286 total · 39/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

The thin flake just left of Partners In Crime. This route has interesting moves the whole way. The crux is positive crimping not jamming.

Climb up the flake, 5.9, to a fixed pin. Reach up to crimps, crux moves, and then jugs. Move right easily to a crack and climb that, 5.9 for 30 feet to an anchor.

Protection

Thin nuts to 3 inch cams.

Photos

Fun climb. The crux just after the pin determines the grade; it's not sustained at the grade above or below that point. Jul 6, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10c
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10c
Nice climb. Easy finger crack to some crimpy moves after the pin(crux) then an easy hand crack to the top.

Blue tcu goes in nicely under the pin to back it up. Sep 26, 2012
Hans
Squamish, BC
 
Hans   Squamish, BC
 
FYI the pin is gone. Feb 3, 2013
looks like a crescent piece of stone that held the pin blew out, from a fall ?
At the top of the scar though you might be able to fiddle in a blue or green alien ? Not sure though since I've not climbed it since last year. Up to were the pin was though takes good gear. Jun 17, 2013
Owen S.
Los Alamos
Owen S.   Los Alamos
Zacks  
Great climb, had to dial the sequence and get my gear beta down at the crux to keep the finger pods clear. Not sure how anyone uses a 3" piece i didn't use anything bigger than a bd #1 although maybe you could squeeze a 2 in at the upper hand crack. doubles in the .3 range are nice to have for the crux, and i used a purple metolius (bd .2 approx) as my first piece, as my friend had a nut pop here when the rope came tight Aug 15, 2016
Lucian G.
Oakland, CA
 
Lucian G.   Oakland, CA
 
Led this yesterday. After fiddling a bit I found that a blue Metolius works well in that final undercling pod before the crux (perhaps that's where the pin used to be?). May 19, 2017

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