Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Dave Jones, Don Serl
Page Views: 1,483 total · 14/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Feb 22, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Two roofs and a chimney. Fun stuff all around. The first crux is the first roof.

Location

It's around the corner West of Crime of the Century and Penny Lane, but East of Up Up and Away. South-West facing corner, the only one on Penny Lane that isn't Quarryman.

Protection

All trad, easily protectable but I equalized two cams below the first roof. I sewed it up though, placed eleven pieces.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Dave...according to your profile you lead 5.10C trad, but you sewed up "Witch Doctor's" (5.9) with 11 pieces. Is there something more we need to know about protection on this climb? Jun 20, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Ha, no, you just need to know that I didn't always lead 10c on gear, there was a time I was maxed out at 5.9.

But maybe the thing you ned to know is that the climb eats gear? (to my memory, at least) Jun 21, 2013
Mat Brunton
  5.9
Mat Brunton  
  5.9
Fun route up a corner crack through a couple small roofs. As of June 2015, the first roof had a bomber fixed cam at what is probably the crux of the route. Solid pro throughout. Jul 12, 2015
Scott Brown
Bellingham
 
Scott Brown   Bellingham
 
Beta alert:

Red C3 around the right side of the 1st roof crux is sooo good. Aug 28, 2017