For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Penny Lane

Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Dave Jones, Don Serl
Page Views: 1,352 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Feb 22, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Two roofs and a chimney. Fun stuff all around. The first crux is the first roof.

Location [Suggest Change]

It's around the corner West of Crime of the Century and Penny Lane, but East of Up Up and Away. South-West facing corner, the only one on Penny Lane that isn't Quarryman.

Protection [Suggest Change]

All trad, easily protectable but I equalized two cams below the first roof. I sewed it up though, placed eleven pieces.


Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Dave...according to your profile you lead 5.10C trad, but you sewed up "Witch Doctor's" (5.9) with 11 pieces. Is there something more we need to know about protection on this climb? Jun 20, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Ha, no, you just need to know that I didn't always lead 10c on gear, there was a time I was maxed out at 5.9.

But maybe the thing you ned to know is that the climb eats gear? (to my memory, at least) Jun 21, 2013
Mat Brunton
Mat Brunton  
Fun route up a corner crack through a couple small roofs. As of June 2015, the first roof had a bomber fixed cam at what is probably the crux of the route. Solid pro throughout. Jul 12, 2015
Scott Brown
Scott Brown   Bellingham
Beta alert:

Red C3 around the right side of the 1st roof crux is sooo good. Aug 28, 2017

More About The Witch Doctor's Apprentice