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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tami Knight, Peter Croft 1978
Page Views: 1,884 total, 14/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details


Begin up the wide and somewhat broken corner. Wander up increasingly steep terrain past a nice section of gentle finger crack to a decent stance. The fire up the final cruxy section of vertical finger crack. I found this to be suprisingly tough and slightly pumpy, and longer than it looked from the ground.


Up, Up and Away is left of Witch Doctor's Apprentice and Power Windows, just around the corner from Crime of the Century. The final finger crack is obvious from the trail.


Standard rack to 2". The lower section of the climb eats nuts, saving finger-sized cams for the final section.
Mat Brunton
Mat Brunton  
Easy until the vertical crack to top out. While significantly harder than the rest of the climb, the crux crack offers excellent protection all the way up. If the grade is within your ability, you should have no problem plugging good pro and avoiding injury (i.e. don't be psyched out by all the injury talk here). Jul 12, 2015
Yes Mark its easy to protect... That second deck/flat area is overlooked and is not forgiving. All of the pieces held when I fell... Another part of it was that I had just caught a glimpse of someone who fell and broke their neck. To be fair-I let my head get to me. Point is-this climb will not forgive (especially that top section). Be careful and have fun! Jan 23, 2013
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
The upper crack accepts both medium to large nuts and cams in the .4-.75 camalot range very well. Jul 30, 2011
Jon Stein
North Vancouver, BC
Jon Stein   North Vancouver, BC
From Penny Lane go left and up to this really appealing 5.9 crack. It just begs to be climbed. Bit of a tricky start makes way for easier climbing up until you get to the last short crack section just before the bolts. This was the only 5.9 section for me and certainly the crux. Very worthy of doing if you are in the area! Sep 3, 2010
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
2 out of 3 comments mention injury from this route. It's worth mentioning that the upper section is not really that hard to protect, it accepts gear well it's just a bit pumpy is all. It's not 5.9 R, or even 5.9 PG-13. Feb 12, 2010
I messed up my ankle last June.
Ended up hobbling down the trail to the car-People looked at me as if I were a ghost. Wish I could have gotten a picture of their faces.

The top crack section is a bit harder than it looks.
I put a piece about neck high. It was solid and held but enabled me to deck out. If I would have "Nut-Fished," and taken some time to really place a piece (higher) I probably would not have hit so hard.

Great Climb Though! Jul 27, 2009
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
The only part of this climb that is 5.9 is the last vertical section. It can be done by layback or jams. I used a couple of #1 for that section. May 30, 2009
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
My first exposure to this climb was making the 911 call after someone nuked their ankle falling near the top. It's a fun climb, but place the gear in the upper crack. It's pumpy, but probably better not to run it out if you don't have strength to stick a cam in.

I wish I had had my camera handy once we had the guy on the ground an waiting for the rescue group with the litter. His shoes were "X-Rays" from Five Ten. Having a picture of the swollen, bent ankle, with the word "X-Ray" on the tongue of his shoe would have been priceless. Dec 18, 2008