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Total Fascination
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Penny Lane
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Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Body Snatcher, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daintily Does It T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exsanguinator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fat Lip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Green Slime Line, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Her Ladyship's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Kahouker'ers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Knob Hopping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lucifer's Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Penny Lane | 1573 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Popeye and the Raven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Power Windows T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smashing Windows S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Superfluous T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Total Fascination S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tougher Quarryman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unreality T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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War Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Weenie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 49.7049, -123.1378 |
| FA: | Marc Andre Leclerc, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 71 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Mar 18, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Effectively a direct start to the 10c exit for Up, Up, and Away, (Tears for Curare) Total Fascination is 4 tightly spaced bolts of proper thin edging and slab climbing (crux) to an exciting stand-up move and mantle getting to the ledge below Curare's bolts. (the first of which badly needs a new nut at the moment) I thought the crux was maybe somewhere between bolts 2 and 3 compressing the subtle arete, but the whole beginning is fairly sustained once you pull on.
The guidebook recommends strong feet, but I found good shoes and decent conditions to be adequate substitutes. Stick-clipping the first isn't a crazy idea. Interestingly, despite the guidebook grade of 13a, 2/3 people on 8a give this thing 13b. (including the author) The one person who gave it 13a said they found it as hard, if not harder, than Smashing Windows.
Location
Look for the 4 bolts immediately right of Up, Up, and Away. There are two options for an anchor at the top. Immediately after mantling, there's a two bolt anchor with rings that would be heinous to use unless you extend it well over the edge. (chain might be nice here?) Further back on the ledge is a somewhat uninspiring tree with a chain wrapped around it backed up by more chain and another so-so bolt. I cleaned and lowered off the higher anchor for the sake of my rope.
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