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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: J. Sandford, 1985
Page Views: 1,456 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Dec 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Edit]

Yet another enjoyable Smoke Bluffs fingercrack starts this one off. When the crack seams out, traverse right (bolted, crux) to the slabby arete.

Location [Edit]

The route starts in a fingercrack immediately right of the 5.9 corner, Witch Doctor's Apprentice.

Protection [Edit]

Take a small selection of finger-sized protection and a few quickdraws for the bolts. Don't forget yer dancin' shoes! I'm pretty sure there's a bolted anchor at the top.

Photos

This is a must do, runner the first two bolts or the rope drag might be a pain.
There are anchors at the top. Jun 17, 2013

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