Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: P. Croft, T. Knight '79
Page Views: 1,653 total · 30/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Jul 31, 2013
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A fine route at the far right end of Penny Lane, this route starts on the left side of a low slab, crosses the slab (bolt), and gains a finger crack on the right side. Follow the crack up, stepping left where its obvious to gain the top.

Location

Far right side of Penny Lane. Look for the striking finger crack that starts about 15' up a slab.

Protection

Gear to hand sized.

Photos

Mark van Eijk
  5.11b
Mark van Eijk  
  5.11b
A beautiful, varied, and exceedingly fun climb. It doesn't seem to get as crowded as the other classics of the grade in the area and is usually the first to dry (in my experience this is one of the fastest drying routes in squamish).

The opening moves are quite technical and I find them to be every bit as challenging as the hardest on crime of the century. However, this route has longer easy sections and better rests. I agree 11b seems more in line with other grades in the area.

Be mindful about placing adequate protection for the follower in the initial crack. Blowing it at the crux can result in a lengthy swing into some sharp blocks. Mar 2, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
imho, if Crime of the Century is 11c, i'd have a hard time calling this the same. This felt quite a bit easier, although if you're shorter, that step across might feel really hard. My 5'0" partner had to work much harder to get into the crack than I did. Maybe split the difference and call it 11b? Feb 22, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Fantastic climb - one of the older Squamish guidebooks rates it 5.11c, which seemed about right. Felt quite a bit harder than "Partners In Crime", which is just a few climbs over and rated 5.11a. Sep 16, 2013

More About Werewolves of London

Printer-Friendly Guide