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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Joe Turley, Gene Smith 1981
Page Views: 4,897 total · 34/month
Shared By: Crack Addict on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

126 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Edit]

Climb up a steep ramp with increasing difficulty until reaching the crux around the third bolt. Although the difficulty decreases from here, there are a few spicy moves after the fourth bolt to gain the anchors.

Location [Edit]

Located on the left side of the Main Cliff. The climb begins just to the left of Quarryman and climbs the ramp to the top.

Protection [Edit]

A few pieces .5 to 1 inch protect the lower section before reaching the first bolt. Four bolts will see you to the anchor 5 ft. left of Quarryman.


Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
For me, the key was stemming through the crux section. It seems improbable at first, but just go with it. Feb 23, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route. Small nuts, TCUs, and a few handsize pieces supplement the bolts. Bit of an exciting ending once past the crux (assuming you don't traverse into Quarryman). Aug 19, 2008
Portland, OR
cerickson   Portland, OR
Awesome route. A point of clarification ... there is a separate anchor for this climb located 5 ft to the left of the Quarryman anchor. Oct 6, 2009
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
led this the morning after rain. The bottom 10 feet of the climb were soaking wet but easily aided on nuts/c3s. There might be a cam placement above the last bolt but I'd already placed the one I wanted to use. So the top was a little spicy, especially when I grabbed a huge rotten log to top out on and almost pulled it down. Great climb, fun and technical stemming. Sep 8, 2014
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I placed about as much gear as I could find, and I used a red, yellow, and blue alien (0.5, 0.4, and 0.2 BD) and 0.75 Camalot. No need to take much else up, the bolts are very well spaced. Jul 27, 2015
Seattle, WA
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
1x#1 C4 (w/Quickdraw), 4 Quickdraws for the bolts, and whatever gear for the anchor is all I needed for this pitch. Not sure why people recommended taking so much gear on this pitch. The spacing of the bolts is perfectly safe.

The #1 fits into this perfect pod at the base of the dihedral before you quest off to stem up to the first bolt. You may be able to fiddle a Red C3 between bolts #3 and #4, but it will reduce your fall by 1-2 ft. Aug 1, 2016
Nederland, CO
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
exciting sandbag! Oct 13, 2016

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