Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Chris Cooper, K. Rajala 1976 FFA: Randy Atkinson, Anders Ourom 1978
Page Views: 6,559 total · 43/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This climb starts slightly down the hill from Penny Lane and Crime of the Century. I think this might be harder then Crime of the Century?

climb a thin crack up to a layback flare or jam straight in, either way it's hard. The crux is the bulge 30 feet up.

Protection

Thin finger sized gear

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11a
This might have a few moves that are harder than any found on Crime of the Century, but it is nowehere near as sustained, in my opinion. Feb 26, 2007
Peter Spindloe   BC
 
Just a few additions. If the bottom is wet, which it often is, you can start on the face just left of the crack and traverse in. Protection widens to thin hands near the top, so bring more than just finger-sized pieces. A great climb. Apr 4, 2007
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
definitely not harder than Crime, although the crux is a bit weird and insecure, unlike Crime. great route, though- and alot longer than we thought it was going to be! Jul 2, 2007
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Great pro, very apparent crux section. Apr 21, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.11a
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.11a
Fun climb with a tricky start. Get past the crux early on and enjoy fun fingers to the top. Longer than it looks from the bottom. Sep 26, 2012
To me this felt like the hardest lead out of the classics at penny lane (crime of the century, werewolves, climb and punishment). Quite tricky and insecure for the first 30 feet, with most placements at the back of a layback flare making them difficult to place and assess.

Much longer than it looks from the ground and the second half is very heavy on 0.5 and 0.75 camalots, multiples in these sizes are highly recommended. Sep 14, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.11a
Bring stiff rubber and trust the smears just right of the crack. The crux is 20-30' where you have to lieback a couple moves that are not secure locks. A super secure lock follows in the bulge, and then a ledge rest. Sep 9, 2018