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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Chris Cooper, K. Rajala 1976 FFA: Randy Atkinson, Anders Ourom 1978
Page Views: 5,597 total, 40/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This climb starts slightly down the hill from Penny Lane and Crime of the Century. I think this might be harder then Crime of the Century?

climb a thin crack up to a layback flare or jam straight in, either way it's hard. The crux is the bulge 30 feet up.

Protection

Thin finger sized gear

Photos

To me this felt like the hardest lead out of the classics at penny lane (crime of the century, werewolves, climb and punishment). Quite tricky and insecure for the first 30 feet, with most placements at the back of a layback flare making them difficult to place and assess.

Much longer than it looks from the ground and the second half is very heavy on 0.5 and 0.75 camalots, multiples in these sizes are highly recommended. Sep 14, 2015
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.11a
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.11a
Fun climb with a tricky start. Get past the crux early on and enjoy fun fingers to the top. Longer than it looks from the bottom. Sep 26, 2012
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Great pro, very apparent crux section. Apr 21, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
definitely not harder than Crime, although the crux is a bit weird and insecure, unlike Crime. great route, though- and alot longer than we thought it was going to be! Jul 2, 2007
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
 
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
 
Just a few additions. If the bottom is wet, which it often is, you can start on the face just left of the crack and traverse in. Protection widens to thin hands near the top, so bring more than just finger-sized pieces. A great climb. Apr 4, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11a
This might have a few moves that are harder than any found on Crime of the Century, but it is nowehere near as sustained, in my opinion. Feb 26, 2007