Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton, 1981
Page Views: 1,761 total, 14/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


78 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This is the crack left of The Yorkshire Gripper. It starts with a few good finger locks, then some good hand jamming until an obvious traverse to the left. The traverse is the crux, but if you just stick in a good piece and launch into it, whether you see a sequence or not, you shouldn't have too much trouble.

There are two additional variations:
1. Start from the ground and go directly up to the crack by passing a rotten roof. Now listed in the guidebook at 10d, although I had done it prior to the book's publication and had noted 10c in my previous edition. 10d sounds good since the second time I tried it, while it was seeping, I couldn't commit to the moves. The crumbly rock in the roof will keep the grade a moving target.
2. Instead of doing the upper traverse, go straight up the face. Bold 11c apparently.

Location

This climb starts as for Quarryman, but then traverses the obvious ledge under Popeye and the Raven (place a piece at this point) and then under The Yorkshire Gripper to the crack a few feet left of the Gripper. There are chains at the top.

Protection

Aside from the traverse to the base of the crack, the protection is excellent throughout. A standard rack up to a 3" cam will suffice.

Photos

Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
 
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
 
This route climbs much better than it looks from the base, definitely recommended. Jul 17, 2017
oretro
 
oretro  
 
The feet are definitely there on the second traverse...look left. This route is less slick than Penny Lane, seemed comparable in grades for that reason.
--- Invalid image id: 111127363 --- Oct 7, 2015
Mat Brunton
  5.9+
Mat Brunton  
  5.9+
So fun! I found the vertical crack below the horizontal crack to be the crux and harder than traversing the short horizontal crack. Be sure to use well placed and extended draws to avoid some potentially serious rope drag. Other than the easy ledge traverse low on the route, protection is great. Jul 12, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
do this climb Jul 3, 2014
If the direct start is dry its safe and fun, or wet its still safe and fun. Blue collar all the way.
there's also another start just to the left of the direct, can't find it in my guide book.
Its excellent though. Not sure I would put a cam in the first horizontal, the others I would.
After pulling the moves (crux) Stand up clip the bolt traverse (R) into the crack. Fun balance moves with hard to see feet. Jun 17, 2013
Alpine Carl  
 
This is a great route, but gets surprisingly little traffic. Get some! May 31, 2007