All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > Penny Lane
Avg: 2.8 from 78 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton, 1981|
|Page Views:||1,794 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Apr 30, 2007|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
DescriptionThis is the crack left of The Yorkshire Gripper. It starts with a few good finger locks, then some good hand jamming until an obvious traverse to the left. The traverse is the crux, but if you just stick in a good piece and launch into it, whether you see a sequence or not, you shouldn't have too much trouble.
There are two additional variations:
1. Start from the ground and go directly up to the crack by passing a rotten roof. Now listed in the guidebook at 10d, although I had done it prior to the book's publication and had noted 10c in my previous edition. 10d sounds good since the second time I tried it, while it was seeping, I couldn't commit to the moves. The crumbly rock in the roof will keep the grade a moving target.
2. Instead of doing the upper traverse, go straight up the face. Bold 11c apparently.