All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Penny Lane

Clandestine Affair

Name: Clandestine Affair
Rating: 2.9

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Penny Lane

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Body Snatcher, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Exsanguinator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fat Lip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Green Slime Line, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Her Ladyship's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Kahouker'ers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Lucifer's Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Popeye and the Raven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Smashing Windows S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Total Fascination S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Tougher Quarryman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unreality T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	War Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Weenie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton, 1981
Page Views:	4,184 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Peter Spindloe on Apr 30, 2007
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This is the crack left of The Yorkshire Gripper. It starts with a few good finger locks, then some good hand jamming until an obvious traverse to the left. The traverse is the crux, but if you just stick in a good piece and launch into it, whether you see a sequence or not, you shouldn't have too much trouble.

There are two additional variations:
1. Start from the ground and go directly up to the crack by passing a rotten roof. Now listed in the guidebook at 10d, although I had done it prior to the book's publication and had noted 10c in my previous edition. 10d sounds good since the second time I tried it, while it was seeping, I couldn't commit to the moves. The crumbly rock in the roof will keep the grade a moving target.
2. Instead of doing the upper traverse, go straight up the face. Bold 11c apparently.

Location

This climb starts as for Quarryman, but then traverses the obvious ledge under Popeye and the Raven (place a piece at this point) and then under The Yorkshire Gripper to the crack a few feet left of the Gripper. There are chains at the top.