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Gumby's Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Gumby's Wall
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Blockheads T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gumby's Inversion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Made of Clay T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pokey's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Rotue T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 248 ft | 76 m |
| GPS: |
49.70736, -123.14064 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 4,240 total · 46/month | |
| Shared By: | Ryan Lynne on Aug 28, 2017 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is a small, long overlooked, wall that sits between Krack Rock and Cabin Boys Office. It has great ambiance during the summer as it is sheltered from the sun until just before sunset. It is a great place to climb when the sun is cooking the other crags in the Smokebluffs.
This crag will seep for some time after significant rain but this is not an issue during the summer months.
All routes are have easy top-rope access.
This crag will seep for some time after significant rain but this is not an issue during the summer months.
All routes are have easy top-rope access.
Getting There
Approach is via Krack Rock or Zombie Roof.
If approaching from Krack Rock, keep walking past Krack Rock towards Cabin Boys Office and Zombie Roof. The crag is at the furthest end of Krack Rock where you can access the top of Krack Rock via a fixed line in a groove.
If approaching from Zombie Roof, keep walking past Zombie Roof and Cabin Boys Office towards Krack Rock. The crag is visible from Cabin Boys Office.
Fastest approach from the parking lot is via Krack Rock.
If approaching from Krack Rock, keep walking past Krack Rock towards Cabin Boys Office and Zombie Roof. The crag is at the furthest end of Krack Rock where you can access the top of Krack Rock via a fixed line in a groove.
If approaching from Zombie Roof, keep walking past Zombie Roof and Cabin Boys Office towards Krack Rock. The crag is visible from Cabin Boys Office.
Fastest approach from the parking lot is via Krack Rock.
Sun Angles Details:
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