Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Freshly scrubbed (2009), this formerly obscure area is now a fine little destination. As with most Smoke Bluffs areas is less-than-vertical, but it offers some excellent finger cracks along with undulating slabs. Some of the slabs are testpieces of the genre. It is broken into an upper (left) and a lower (right) area separated by a short stretch trail.

There appear to be quite a number of new routes here too recent to to be in the 2005 McLane guide book. Most are on the lower crag, although there is one very grim looking bolted slab on the upper crag.

New route descriptions are likely in the new route binder at Climb On on Squamish. One new route is on the left side of the lower crag and is distinguished by being just right of the dirty gully and having two or three bolts in the thin and slabby upper half. It's reasonably fun and goes at about 10c.

Getting There

This area is just off the Loop Trail between the Elephant's Arse area and the Octopus's Garden. A sign post beside the trail points the way.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Funarama Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Funarama

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 63
Squatters Rights
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 83
First Class
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Funarama
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Squatters Rights
 63
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
First Class
 83
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Funarama
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Funarama »

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Rockwood
West Jordan
Rockwood   West Jordan
I have no idea what routes we climbed here but as a new leader I wanted to lead a couple routes everyday. We spent the day at Octopus Garden and things were either too hard or too crowded for my slow leading. We stumbled upon this crag on our way back and it's very obvious leadable cracks, none of them listed in the book. They were quick and easy and great practice. I did two or three that weren't above a 5.7 so as with most Squamish Crags, there's loads of routes not yet listed on MP. There's obvious work still being done here. Aug 3, 2010